Mmm...that's good!

Blog Move

2011-10-17T17:32:00.000-07:00

I'm making the move to Word Press and moving "mmm...that's good!" to it's new home as of this week.

Since the bulk of my posts are my Wednesday round-up of the best recipes in food media, I've renamed the site "Food Wednesday". You can find all my archived posts and many new ones to come right here.

You can now easily subscribe to the blog via email (see the right side panel when you are on the new site), share the individual posts via Facebook and Twitter, and view pretty much everything in a much cleaner fashion.

Please excuse any hiccups along the way. If you head over and have any feedback, please leave a comment.

Thanks for coming by.

Jodi

What I'm Reading Today

2011-10-12T14:51:00.000-07:00

Mid-Seventies and sunny have us all fooled out here in SF. Indian summer is alive and well and the smell of grilling is in the air. Gotta love these whacked out seasons we have. Whether it's hot, cold, wet, or dry where you are, enjoy a few of these links for some kitchen inspiration.

(Jim Wilson/The New York Times)

I don't know why I don't think about clams and mussels more often when it's time to plan a last minute dinner. Shellfish like these cook up in minutes and their fairly mild flavor lets you spice them up big time for a hearty dinner. In the NY Times, David Tanis takes his to southeast Asia to make Spicy Green Mussels with a homemade green curry paste. Even the making of the curry paste is quick, the whole dish can be on your table in under 20 minutes. If you aren't a mussel fan clams work here too and, in a real pinch run to your favorite Asian market and by some green curry paste already prepared.

(Katie Falkenberg/The Los Angeles Times)

Michael Ruhlman has a new book called "Ruhlman's Twenty: 20 Techniques 100 Recipes A Cook's Manifesto". In today's LA Times Russ Parsons says of the book, "There is so much good information in "Twenty," and even more good sense." Aimed at the well established home cook, Rhulman aims to distill cooking down to twenty basic techniques, the how and why behind everything from salt to pastry dough. Parsons had his wife put it to the test and when she was so proud of her dishes she photographed them to email to her friends, he knew it was a success. You can try it out too, making Mac and Cheese with Soubise (a Bechamel sauce pureed with slow cooked onions).

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

Monday night I was lucky enough to join 1,400 other people at San Francisco's Castro Theater to hear Ferran Adria, thanks to Omnivore Books' amazing event. His new book, "The Family Meal: Home Cooking with Ferran Adria" is truly practical and simple. The visual steps for each recipe are stunning and the timelines outlined for each menu show how to execute the dishes in no time. In today's Washington Post you can find Adria's recipe for Roasted Eggplant with Miso Dressing. Like the others, it's aimed at a busy cook who doesn't want to break the bank, or spend all night, making dinner. No foams, liquid nitrogen, or calcium chloride necessary.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-09-28T11:29:00.000-07:00

It's 80 degrees and finally summer in San Francisco. Even so, fall is settling in everywhere and it's time to take inspiration from belly warming dishes that use the best of the season.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

I love moussaka but it is seriously rich food. This vegetarian version from the NY Times, Eggplant, Bulgur, and Tomato Casserole with Yogurt Topping, looks to be lighter, even healthy (and who's ever said that about moussaka?). It can be made in phases, with the sauce, cooked eggplant, and bulgur all being prepared a day or two in advance. The topping is yogurt enriched with eggs and Parmesan, giving you that creamy cheesy top without the weight of a traditional bechamel. I'm getting hungry just looking at the photo.

(Anne Cusack/The Los Angeles Times)

If you're celebrating Rosh Hashanah this week, happy new year. It's a time for family and, of course, food and this recipe from the LA Times would be a perfect centerpiece for your meal. It's Marinated Chicken Stuffed with Grapes and Brown Rice and, frankly, I think it would be lovely for any rustic fall dinner party. The chicken is marinated overnight in pomegranate molasses with honey and spices and the rice/grape mixture is all cooked outside the bird before it's stuffed inside. The chicken cooks for about 90 minutes, totally unattended, so this is actually one of those recipes that looks like you've worked forever without having to do much at all.

(Doug Beghtel/The Oregonian)

As we begin to see signs of fall you can be sure your farmers' market will start brimming with fresh pears. This Rustic Pear Galette from The Oregonian is a fall dessert anyone can make, especially if you've shied away from making pie crust before. The crust is rolled and filled with fresh pears and almond paste (a match made in heaven). Rather than having to form it perfectly into a pie pan, a galette is a free form tart that looks fabulous no matter how you fold over the edges. The word "rustic" is key here, make it your own and it will look great when it bakes.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Autumn Entertaining @ The Blender

2011-09-20T09:19:00.000-07:00

If you haven't checked out The Blender yet, give it a click. It is a blog from Williams Sonoma, full of cooking tips, recipes, wine info, and tons of other tasty information.

I am guest blogging over there and you can see the full post here. The full menu looks like this:

Fig and Fromage Blanc Crostini

(from Cooking from the Farmers' Market )

Roasted Beets with Orange and Herbed Goat Cheese

(from New Flavors for Vegetables )

Pancetta Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Anchovies, and Red Pepper

(from New Flavors for Vegetables )

Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary and Bay

(from Cooking from the Farmers' Market )

Pear Tarte Tatin with Winter Spices

(from Cooking from the Farmers' Market )

To make it easy I wanted to post each recipe here so you have the entire menu at hand next time you want to throw a dinner party. After the jump you can see them all...enjoy!

Fig and Fromage Blanc Crostini

8 figs, halved lengthwise

1 tbs balsamic vinegar

coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 slices ciabatta bread, each 1/2-inch thick

1/2 cup fromage blanc

1 cup arugula leaves, washed and dried

2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and toast until lightly brown and crisp, 4-5 minutes. Set aside (can be stored overnight in an airtight container at room temperature).

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the figs, cut side up, on the prepared sheet. Drizzle with the vinegar, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast at 400 degrees until the figs are very tender, 10-15 minutes. Set aside.

Spread about 1 tbs of the fromage blanc on each slice of toasted bread. Top with 2 fig halves, using a fork to mash them gently. Cut each crostini in half. Top with a few arugula leaves and drizzle with olive oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper and serve right away.

Serves 6

Roasted Beets with Oranges and Herbed Goat Cheese

1 orange

6 medium beets (about 1½ pounds), greens removed and reserved for another use
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
2 whole garlic cloves, peeled
coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 ounces soft goat cheese
1½ teaspoons minced fresh chives
1½ teaspoons minced fresh Italian parsley
½ teaspoon minced fresh tarragon

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Grate the zest from the orange and set it aside. Halve the orange and place one half in a baking dish just large enough to hold the beets in one layer. Add the beets, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the garlic cloves. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss well to combine. Cover the pan with foil and roast until the beets are tender when pierced with a sharp knife, about 45 minutes.

While the beets are cooking, combine the goat cheese, chives, tarragon, and parsley in a small bowl. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper and stir well to combine. Refrigerate until needed.

Remove the beets from the oven and, when cool enough to handle, use the dull side of a pairing knife to gently scrape off the skins. Cut the beets crosswise into slices about ¼-inch thick and place them on a serving platter. Let cool to room temperature. Line a small strainer with a damp paper towel (the paper towel will catch any grit in the cooking liquid). Pour the beet cooking liquid through the strainer, squeezing the orange to release any juices. To the strained cooking liquid, add the remaining olive oil and squeeze in the juice from the remaining orange half. Taste and season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper and let cool to room temperature.

When ready to serve, drizzle the beets with enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat them, you may not use it all, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top the beets with small spoonfuls of the herbed goat cheese and sprinkle with orange zest.

Serves 4-6

Pancetta Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

2 pork tenderloins (about 1½ pounds)

coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary, plus several sprigs

1/3 pound pancetta or bacon, thinly sliced

4 shallots, peeled and quartered with stems attached

1 teaspoon butter, softened

1 teaspoon all-purpose flour

1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 375°. Season pork with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large, oven proof, skillet over medium heat. Sear pork on all sides until browned, about 5 minutes total. Remove from heat.

Rub pork with chopped rosemary. Wrap tenderloins with pancetta, overlapping strips slightly. Use toothpicks to secure pancetta, if necessary. Place a rosemary sprig on top or each piece of meat, tie pork with kitchen twine, and remove toothpicks. Return pork to skillet. Scatter shallots and rosemary sprigs around pork. Roast in oven, basting occasionally with cooking juices, until it reaches an internal temperature of 145° on an instant-read thermometer, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer pork and shallots to a platter and cover to keep warm.

In a small bowl, combine butter and flour. Place the pork skillet over medium heat. Add stock, scraping bottom of skillet to loosen browned bits. Bring to a boil to reduce liquid slightly, about 2 minutes. Whisk in butter mixture and Dijon and cook until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Slice pork, drizzle with sauce and serve the shallots on the side.

Serves 4-6

Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic, Anchovies, and Red Pepper

1 bunch broccoli rabe, tough ends removed, cut crosswise into 1-2 inch pieces
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 oil packed anchovy filets, minced
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 lemon

Heat a large pot of salted water over high heat. When the water comes to a boil, add the broccoli rabe and cook 2 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the rabe into a bowl of ice water. Once cool, drain again and set aside.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the oil and, when hot, add the garlic, anchovy, and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, just until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Do not let the garlic brown.

Add the broccoli rabe to the pan. Continuously toss with tongs until the rabe begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, toss, and reduce the heat to medium low. Simmer until the broccoli rabe is just tender, 2-3 minutes more. Halve the lemon and squeeze the juice from one half over the dish.

Serves 4

Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary and Bay

2 pounds small waxy potatoes (baby Yukons or reds)

1 head garlic, cloves separated but not peeled

5 sprigs rosemary

1 bay leaf

3 tbs olive oil

coarse salt

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (ok to do it at 375 if you want to cook pork at the same time, just add a few minutes for the potatoes).

Put the potatoes in a large piece of heavy aluminum foil, or a baking dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add the garlic, rosemary, bay leave, and olive oil. Season with salt and toss well. Add a splash of water. Tightly close the foil or cover the baking dish with foil. Bake until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes. Serve right away.

Serves 4-6

Pear Tarte Tatin with Winter Spices

8-10 inch rectangle of good quality frozen puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator

3 tbs butter

1/4 cup sugar

4 firm, ripe pears-peeled, halved, and cored

1/2 cup light brown sugar

2 tbs finely chopped crystallized ginger

2 tbs fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp each ground nutmeg and cloves

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Refrigerate the pastry dough for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Using 1 tbs of the butter, grease a 12-inch round baking dish with 2 inch sides. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the bottom. Place the pears, cut side up, in the prepared dish. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup of the brown sugar. Top with the crystallized ginger and lemon juice. Cut the remaining 2 tbs of butter into bits and dot the tops of the pears with it. In a small bowl stir together the remaining brown sugar and the nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon-sprinkle the mixture over the pears.

On a floured work surface, roll. out the pastry a little larger than the diameter of the dish and 1/4-inch thick. Transfer the dough to the pan, tucking the edges of the pastry into the bottom of the dish to form a rim that encircles the pears. Prick the top all over with a fork. Tarte can be refrigerated at this point up to 6 hours.

Bake until the crust is golden brown, the pears are tender, and the a thickened, golden syrup has formed in the dish, about 1 hours. Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes. Run a knife around the inside edge of the dish to loosen the sides. Invert the tart onto a plate, dislodging and replacing any pears that may have stuck to the dish. Cut into wedges and serve warm.

Serves 6-8

What I'm Reading Today

2011-09-14T09:00:00.000-07:00

I started teaching a new course of Basics One last night. Welcome to my enthusiastic and passionate group-I can tell it's going to be a great six weeks, full of well cooked food and lots of laughs. Check out my current classes at Tante Marie's-would love to see you there too.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Okra gets a bad wrap, mostly for the texture it takes on when it cooks. Some call it slimy, others absolutely love it. I've always been a fan but lean towards preparations that rid the okra of it's slickness. Fried, of course, if always fabulous. I also have a recipe for a Tomato and Okra Stew in New Flavors for Vegetables that will make a lover out of anyone. In today's NY Times this recipe for Turkish Chicken and Okra Casserole looks amazing. Chicken is braised in tomatoes while the okra gets a bath in vinegar and salt. When combined, the okra is cooked until just tender so you get some crunch without the overly-soft bite many people shy away from. Aleppo pepper, common in many Turkish dishes, kicks it up a bit (if you can't find any try a combo of smoky paprika and cayenne). The whole recipes takes just over an hour, mostly unattended, and it looks well worth the wait. Get yourself some okra and give it a try.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

I've got a huge sweet tooth. I always have room for dessert and could eat it with (or instead of) every meal. Chocolate, Caramel, Nuts, Berries...love 'em all. The adoration, however, stops at cooked pears and apples. I don't know why but, when those winter fruits start to show their faces on dessert menus I am not a happy camper. Why, then, does this Spiced Apple Pudding Cake with Caramel Sauce in the Washington Post look so damn good? I'm a sucker for pudding cakes and, throw on the caramel-forget about it! I actually think I could see my way past the apples for this one although while nectarines and plums are still around I may try it with one of those.

(Colin Campbell/The Guardian)

If you've been to the farmers' market lately you've probably seen an abundance of gorgeous beans. And not just your average green beans-scarlett runner beans, fresh borlotti beans, and other pole varieties usually seen the rest of the year only in their dried versions. Grab fresh beans while you can, they really are a special treat. This recipe for French Beans with Feta, Walnuts, and Mint, from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in The Guardian, is just one way to cook seasonal beans. He also has Borlottis with Onion and Garlic (perfect room temp with imported oil-packed tuna) and Runner Beans braised with Cherry Tomatoes (old school beans that are really cooked but full of flavor). I even saw lovely varieties at my neighborhood Whole Foods yesterday. Get 'em soon as they don't stay around for long.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-09-07T14:25:00.000-07:00

Before I get into my favorite recipes of today, let me report back on the Curried Zucchini and Chickpea Soup I posted last week. I made it last night and it was fantastic and very easy. The yogurt on top is a must-the tang cuts the starch from the bean/potato combination, and I used chives instead of dill on top. Give it a try if you haven't already-even my son, who swears he doesn't like zucchini, at the entire bowl.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Fried rice is probably not the first thing that comes to mind when you think "eating healthy". Martha Rose Shulman, in today's NY Times, might just change your mind. Her recipe for Stir-Fried Brown Rice with Poblanos and Edamame may be shy of some of that fat but you wont miss any of the flavor. The bite from the roasted poblanos (which you can roast and peel at least a day in advance) is perfect with the nutty brown rice and crunchy soy beans. This is the ideal way to use leftover brown rice when you cook a big batch using this method, which turns out perfect every time.

(James Peterson/The Washington Post)

Tackling a souffle might not be your idea of a quick weeknight dinner but, with the help of an electric mixer and a whisk attachment, anyone can pull one off. This recipe, from the Washington Post, is a Goat Cheese Souffle with absolutely no fuss. There are only three main ingredients-eggs, goat cheese, and a pinch of cream of tartar. The method entails folding together the cheese and yolks then beating your whites to stiff peaks. After gently combining the batter, the souffles bake about 20 minutes and you're done. Remember, souffles wait for no one-they are at their finest just out of the oven so have your family or friends at the table when these come out. Also, with so few ingredients it is critical you use the best goat cheese you can find. Ask your cheese monger for a Bucheron and don't skimp, you'll be glad you got the good stuff.

(Bill Hogan/The Chicago Tribune)

Spicy Steak Bahn Mi Sandwiches look well worth the effort. But, when JeanMarie Brownson of the Chicago Tribune tells you this is how she transforms her leftover steak, they sound even better. Taking slices of stir fried steak and piling them on a soft roll with pickled veggies and Sriracha mayo is exactly why you should make more meat for dinner than you think you might eat. Of course chicken, pork, or tofu would all work too-same recipe, same method, same amazing leftovers.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Garlic Cheese Bread

2011-09-06T18:58:00.000-07:00

These days my inbox is barraged with all the food related newsletters. I admittedly send many to the trash before reading them but something about the August 16th issue of Tasting Table caught my eye. It was a recipe from Slice Pizza and Brew in Birmingham, AL for Garlic Cheese Bread. My love is baking and there is no denying how amazing this looks, right?

I tried the recipe tonight and was thrilled with the results. I make a lot of homemade pizza, using a version of the Chez Panisse pizza dough, made with regular all-purpose flour. This dough is made with bread flour, higher in gluten which creates a more elastic dough. A touch of honey and a pinch of oregano were nice in there too. It kneads itself in the electic mixer with a dough hook, rises an hour, then rests in the fridge for four hours more. The result is a beautiful dough that stretches easily into the elongated rectangle shapes you'll want. Mine was a touch sticky so I made sure to dust it with flour before I wrapped it for the fridge, and dusted my board a bit more before stretching it out.

The only tricky part is transferring the very long rectangle of dough to something like a pizza peel. It needs to end up on your pizza stone in the oven, so the peel seems like the natural vessel to get it there. Problem is the rectangles are about twice as long as my pizza peel. Here's how it looked before it went into the oven (I originally had it on a long wooden cutting board but it wouldn't slide onto the stone, hence the transfer to my cornmeal dusted pizza peel):

I ended up making one just barely fit on the peel and had to cut my second one in half. Didn't matter, they got to the stone just fine and baked quickly and perfectly.

The dough had the perfect chew-thin but not cracker-like with lots of bubbles around the golden crust. It's topped simply, with olive oil, garlic, thyme, and grated mozzarella-I sprinkled salt around the edges too. I'm won over by the crust and will be using it for pizzas..a lot.

Thanks Tasting Table-glad your note broke through the clutter.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-08-31T12:05:00.000-07:00

Call my crazy but I love the routine that is the school year. My son went back to school this morning and even he was excited and ready to be back. I am infinitely more productive at work, and at home, when summer disappears. Of course fall in SF means Indian summer is just beginning so I'll need to keep myself focused once the sun starts shining. A few new recipes always help me do that-what about you?

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Admittedly, there is one thing I don't love about the school year-making lunches. I try to shake it up as best I can to keep myself, and my son, from getting tired of any one thing. He has a great appetite and will taste anything so he's always open to new ideas. In today's NY Times Melissa Clark writes about taking old favorites and giving them a small twist. She also solves the problem some of us have when you have to make lunch for your kids and for yourself. I like a kick, my son won't have it. I like onions, he'll say no way. Some of her ideas are Chicken Salad Sandwiches with Mango Chutney, Hard Cooked Egg with Basil Butter Sandwich (add anchovies to kick up your version), and Turkey Apple Sandwiches with Maple Mayonnaise (the sriracha in the mayo is your choice). I find kids are so damn hungry at lunch that it really is the perfect time to give them something new to eat.

(Bob Chamberlin/The Los Angeles Times)

This recipe for Chipotle-Orange Pulled Pork caught my eye in the LA Times food section today because it is a huge favorite of mine. The summer we lived down in Venice Beach I made this a few times for friends and it was absolutely amazing. Cooking a pork shoulder is not difficult, but be patient because you want to cook it slow and low for that perfect melt-in-your-mouth texture. That cooking is mostly unattended so it wont tether you to the stove...there is a lot you can get done in the five hours this takes to cook! Clean a closet, weed the yard, catch up on old episodes of Mad Men, or make a pie. I feel a dinner part coming on.

(Marvin Joseph/The Washington Post)

I was at a friend's house last wknd and the zucchini from her garden were gigantic. Once they get too big they're better off used as a centerpiece than a meal but, if you catch them while they're still "normal" sized, the recipe possibilities are really endless. I love this recipe for Curried Zucchini and Chickpea Soup from today's Washington Post. Healthy and packed full of flavor, it comes together very fast with ingredients you likely have in your pantry right now. With the addition of both potatoes and chickpeas, this soup is hearty so toss together a simple green salad and you've got all you need for a fabulous dinner. Heck, if you're kids are good eaters, I'd even throw this one in the thermos for lunch the next day.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

Aunt Bobbie

2011-08-24T10:34:00.000-07:00

My great-aunt passed away on Tuesday night. She lived a long and inspirational life, bringing joy to everyone around her. She was my grandmother's sister and the last of the three siblings to pass.

About four years ago our family gathered to celebrate her 80th birthday. It was a wonderful time as she was well and healthy and couldn't have been happier, surrounded by kids, nieces, nephews, grandkids, and cousins. It was on that trip that I realized that Bobbie wasn't just inspirational in a matriarchal way, she was a culinary inspiration to the family.

This being my mom's side of the family, most of us were born with some kind of cooking gene embedded deeply. But Bobbie was the baker. My mom used to tell me that when she'd go babysit her cousins she'd immediately raid Bobbie's freezer because it was always full to the brim with cookies (of course she eventually got caught when her uncle reminded her one night to not leave the freezer door open).

Bobbie baked for everything. When she got older she'd send cookies to events she couldn't attend, and she'd even send me recipes handwritten on recipe cards if she found a new one she liked. She never stuck to any one recipe, always trying a new version of this one or a change to that one (my mom is the same way).

Her granddaughter K went on to culinary school and is working in a restaurant now. Her other granddaughter, A, bakes stunningly beautiful cakes that rival any professional bakery. My cousin S and her husband opened their own fab Indian restaurant this year in San Mateo. My other cousin, I, started a restaurant in SF and is now a food/wine writer in New York, And I dabble in cooking here and there too.

While the rest of the family might not cook as a profession, everyone gathers around homemade food and everything that comes from our kitchens is made with love. Aunty Bobbie's legacy will live on through this kind of deliciousness and we'll all hear her in our ears every time we try another new cookie recipe.

In her honor, here are a few of my favorites:

Oatmeal Scotchies

Salty Chocolate Chip

Star Wars Cookies (ok, not my fave but Bobbie would have been proud)

Anything from this book, which is my all time favorite

What I'm Reading Today

2011-08-24T03:35:00.000-07:00

There is a reason I don't drink caffeine of any kind. Tonight I fell off the wagon, succumbing to delicious masala chai at Indian food with my friend MJ. I mean, it's not coffee, how bad can it be? I drink decaf like it's going out of style and "they" say it has some caffeine so I should be fine, right? Wrong! It's 2:45 am and I'm still wide awake. Oh my family is going to love me and my mood tomorrow...sorry guys, mom's going to need a nap.

In the mean time, while I'm up, here's what I'm reading today.

(Jim Wilson/The New York Times)

Those who know me well know that I'm a sucker for chicken livers. We grew up eating them, dredged in seasoned flour and pan fried, so to me they never conjured up the au courant idea of eating nose to tail (or beak to tail feather, in this case). They were simply dinner, and a good one at that. I don't make them often and, when I do, it's usually a rustic pate to spread on toast, ideally with pickled onions. This recipe for French Chicken Liver and Green Bean Salad with Garam Masala looks delicious enough for me to fry up a few of my own. David Tanis, in The NY Times, dusts his in Garam Masala. Garam Masala is an Indian spice blend that is easily found in stores, but if you have cardamom, black pepper, cumin, clove, nutmeg and cinnamon at home, toast the spices gently and grind them up together from a much fresher version. This is quick, simple, and gorgeous to boot. Maybe it's time you try some chicken livers too?

(Colin Campbell/The Guardian)

Chilled summer soups are the perfect solution to your local heat wave (in SF this means late September so, if you're in my hood, you can file this one away for a few weeks). In London's Guardian Yotam Ottolenghi has four fantastic sounding recipes that are not your usual Gazpacho. The first, Chicken and Buttermilk, is a pureed potato base with a lemony kick and it's served with poached chicken. The second, a Sourdough and Tomato Soup is a cold version of Papa al Pomodoro where the bread is used to thicken the soup. The Carrot and Coconut Soup has a Thai kick with lemongrass, chili, and kafir lime. Finally, and pictured above, is a Chilled Fennel Soup with Halloumi Croutons. Well, he may call them croutons but really those are lovely little nuggets of fried cheese. I know, they all sound good but I think he had me at "halloumi croutons".

(Anne Cusask/The Los Angeles Times)

Onion and Sage Foccacia from The LA Times. We have Nancy Silverton, of La Brea and Mozza fame, to thank for this beautiful bread. She took part in the paper's series of Master Classes where notable chefs shared their "tricks of the trade". You can watch this video for Nancy's tips and while you're there, try your hand at her other versions: Roasted Pepper and Chile or a simple Olive Oil and Rosemary. Once you master the basic dough, you can get as creative as you like.

(Dan Neville/The New York Times)

One last plug, also from The NY Times. Apparently the kitchen at The French Laundry has been getting more and more requests for gluten-free versions of many of their signature dishes. Not one to scoff at what his customer's want, Thomas Keller had Lena Kwak, his "culinary researcher", develop a gluten free flour that acts like all purpose flour. They've cleverly named it C4C, or cup for cup, and it's available at Williams Sonoma. I have so many friends who follow a g.f. diet, I'm anxious to give it a shot. Here's the scoop.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-08-17T19:22:00.000-07:00

Summer produce at it's finest-see you at the market.

(Jim Wilson/The New York Times)

Sweet Corn with Poblano Chiles....mmmm. This is the time of year that you are heading to your local market to buy the sweetest corn you can get. Local really matters here as the less time corn spends off the stalk, the sweeter it will be (no one likes that chalky, starchy stuff that comes with sitting around). In this recipe, from David Tanis in the NY Times, corn, bell pepper, and roasted poblanos are combined with fresh lime juice and creme fraiche, giving a rajas like feel. Make lots because I think the leftovers would be fantastic in a frittata the next day.

(Gary Friedman/The Los Angeles Times)

Chinese Chicken Salad. I know, it's kind of '80s and not very "on trend" as they say. But say what you will, when the weather is hot and I'm not feeling like cooking, this salad makes a perfect meal. From the LA Times, this version is adapted from a restaurant called Chi Dinasty. I love the simplicity of the dressing and the unabashed use of iceberg lettuce. Sure you could use cabbage, romaine, or even arugula but, it's a throw back, right? I say go for the iceberg.

(TMS photo)

Peach Melba Cobbler-why didn't I think of that? Well, to be honest I've made my fair share of peach and berry cobblers, and this particular recipe is great because you can use any stone fruit/berry combination you like (I'm a big fan of nectarines and blackberries). Cobbler is a perfect summer dessert. It satisfies you like a piece of pie, but it's a lot less work. The dough is more like a biscuit dough and there no need to roll it out. I love Diane Rossen Worthington's idea (in the Chicago Tribune) of par-cooking the filling before adding the dough on top. This keeps the dough from getting soggy and cooks it nice and even.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-08-10T13:02:00.000-07:00

It's been a quiet week around here with my son off visiting the grandparents. I admittedly haven't been cooking much but did have a fantastic meal at Pizzeria Delfina on California Street last night. Everything was stellar, as usual, but I particularly loved the Eggplant & Ricotta Crostino-a large slice of grilled bread, incredibly creamy ricotta, and perfectly grilled slices of eggplant. It was divine (and definitely seasonal, so get it while you can), and especially tasty with my glass of Grangnano Frizzante.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

It was that eggplant dish that attracted me to this Eggplant Parmesan Deconstructed recipe in today's NY Times. Melissa Clark tops fried eggplant rounds with ricotta, a quick homemade tomato sauce, basil, and crispy panko breadcrumbs. I think you could grill the eggplant too, what ever works for you. Either way I'm pretty sure I could eat this by the platter-full and it's a heck of a lot easier than the old school version.

(Ben Frank/TMS)

When you get that grill fired up for your eggplant, keep it on for these Grilled Banana Splits from the Chicago Tribune. I'll always remember grilling bananas when we camped as kids (in the skin, stuffed with chocolate chips, wrapped in foil-yum!). The caramelized exterior and creamy inside transform a banana into a super luxurious addition to any ice cream sundae.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

Gazpacho is one of the best ways to use the abundance of tomatoes you pick up at the farmers' market. It's all about the tomatoes, and with all this heat you should be finding many summer varieties popping up in your town. Don't sacrifice and buy hot house or imported tomatoes...all you'll get is a big bowl of "why bother", trust me. This Gazpacho, from Urthh cafe in LA via the LA Times, could not be easier and the soup will keep 5-6 days in your fridge so keep a big batch on hand. A perfect lunch or summer side dish, make Gazpacho while you can.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-07-27T16:17:00.000-07:00

Summer cooking at its best-enjoy!

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Straciatella is a Roman style egg drop soup. Usually made by beating eggs and adding them to hot chicken broth, it is both light and satisfying at the same time. In today's New York Times I found this recipe for Tomato Straciatella. I adore tomato soup and combining it with this Roman staple makes it even more appealing. This dish is perfect for those of us who often look in the pantry at 6pm and wonder what we can throw together for dinner. Well, pull out those canned tomatoes and chicken broth, your hunk of Parm, and whatever herbs are hanging around and this lovely soup comes together in about a half hour. This is last minute cooking at its finest!

(Irfan Kahn/The Los Angeles Times)

When it comes to the BBQ I usually go simple and easy. That said, I saw this recipe on the LA Times food page today and couldn't resist it: Stuffed Pork Chops with Roasted Cherry BBQ Sauce. Totally indulgent and definitely a bit time consuming, you should make the BBQ sauce a day in advance and stuff your pork chops several hours before grilling. The stuffing is a combination of bacon, goat cheese, fennel, and almonds...the entire combination sounds absolutely incredible.

(Michael Tercha/Chicago Tribune)

If you haven't yet read Life on the Line by Grant Achatz, it is a book you should go out and buy right now. I just finished it and found it incredibly inspiring. Grant, of Alinea fame in Chicago, was raised in a restaurant family. His dad has long owned the Achatz Riverview Restaurant in St. Clair, Michigan and in today's Chicago Tribune they pay him his own respects. Grant Achatz Sr. bakes a rotation of 32 different pies at his restaurant and his experience has given him the right to stand on his own soap box. Check out the article for his tips and recipes for Coconut Cream and Mixed Berry Pie. Both look diner-worth delicious.

Pie Crazy

2011-07-23T14:36:00.000-07:00

Summer has been busy and posts have been sporadic. I'm still out here, working hard on some new exciting things I'll talk about soon.

In the meantime, we've been entertaining...a lot. I love summer dinner parties for many reasons-lots of chilled rosé, no fussy food, and plenty of fresh produce to inspire me. The grill helps too and mine has seen its fair share of burgers and skirt steak this summer. But, truth be told, it's the summer desserts that I love the most.

In July's Bon Appétit there is a recipe for Blueberry Crumble Pie. I made it once, substituting fresh peaches and raspberries for the blueberries because I'd picked up tons at a farm and they were obscenely sweet. The dough turned out so fantastic it's become my favorite recipe. It's really just a very basic pâte brisée, an all butter crust that needs no embellishment. Don't overwork it is my best advice. You can absolutely mix it in your food processor but pulse it together just until it gets crumbly-if it forms a ball you've gone too far. And, don't skip the step of gently smearing the dough across your work surface. This distributes the butter in a way no food processor can (the French call it 'fraisage' but 'smearing' is just fine with me).

Here are a few pics of some of the things I've created with this dough. Give it a shot. The recipe makes enough for one crust so if you want a double crust pie be sure to make two batches.

This is my version of the crumble pie with raspberries and peaches. I used a deep dish tart pan so I could pack it with extra fruit.

Same dough, blind-baked then filled with fangipane (creamy almond filling) and sliced farm fresh nectarines.

Finally, my death-row dessert is blackberry pie. I found some gigantic and sweet blackberries at the market and turned the dough into hand-pies. I cut it into circles about 6 inches in diameter and filled it with a par-cooked filling I made (berries, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice). I vented these babies way too much and they leaked all over their baking sheets but, thankfully they were packed full and still turned out great when done. Who doesn't love a pie you can take on the run?

What I'm Reading Today

2011-07-13T11:51:00.000-07:00

I'm feeling a brunch coming on...

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Who wouldn't want to wake up to Morning Oatmeal with Cherries and Pistachios? In today's NY Times, Martha Rose Shulman explores some new ways to use the peak of the season cherries you are seeing right now in the market. Here she suggests finding quick cooking steel cut oats but I've started substituting quinoa in my morning cereal bowl and really love it. While Martha opts to make her oatmeal in the microwave, I don't have one and find it just as simple to do it old school, that is on the stove. If you're using quinoa instead, just rinse it well and put it in a small pot with 2x the amount of water to quinoa (you can throw in a small pat of butter if you like too). Bring it to a boil then let it simmer until the quinoa is tender w/just a bit of a bite, 10 minutes should do it. Fresh cherries, crunchy pistachios, and a little brown sugar...now that sounds like a perfect breakfast.

(Gary Friedman/The Los Angeles Times)

Since we're on the subject of breakfasts, after all those whole grain mornings you'll undoubtedly need to indulge. I think these Orange Breakfast Scones from Sweetie Pie's in Napa Valley should do the trick. The LA Times managed to get the recipe at a reader's request and I can tell these will be flaky and tender (to me the sign of a great scone). When you see both AP flour and cake flour you know you're working with a tender dough. Remember, anytime you mix a dough like this (biscuits, scones, muffins, etc.), be gentle! This is not bread dough. It needs a loving hand to combine the ingredients just enough to bring them together. Tough kneading or mixing will result in rocks, not scones, and who needs that?

While we're "indulging" in breakfast, how does a Butterscotch Peach Split sound? OK, so maybe it's not the healthiest of options but there is fruit, and I suppose yogurt could stand in for ice cream too. The SF Chronicle published this recipe from "The Fearless Baker" by Emily Luchetti and Lisa Weis, a book I own and highly recommend. This is the perfect summer sweet treat, and I love the crunch from the macadamia nuts. Lately I've been a big fan of Three Twins vanilla ice cream so when you're out looking for a pint to use here, try to find it. It's pure vanilla taste is the next best thing to homemade.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-06-29T09:28:00.000-07:00

Sorry for the sporadic posting. Summer has collided with a crazy busy schedule. Lots of fun food stuff happening too. Last night I took a fantastic class at 4505 Meats. If you can't make it to Ryan Farr's kitchen, find him at the farmers' market and take home some sausage. Amazing stuff! Also spent a Saturday at Soul Food Farm learning all about how acid effects cooking with Samin Nosrat. A bright sunny day, we enjoyed an incredible lunch amidst the happy chickens at Soul Food. Samin is a pro and Alexis and Eric were perfect hosts. When it comes to food, there is always more to learn. If you haven't taken a cooking class lately, go!

(Irfan Kahn/The Los Angeles Times)

Featured in today's LA Times is one of the paper's most popular recipes, Lemon Blueberry Buckle. When berries are in season, you see recipes everywhere for cobblers, crisps, crumbles, and buckles. Each one is it's own variation on the fruit/crust theme. A buckle leans more towards cake than pie but its usually topped with a crumble-like topping, and should be bursting with fresh fruit. Blueberries should be excellent right now but any other berries or stone fruits will do. This simple recipe is definitely a keeper for your next summer dinner al fresco.

(Tony Cenicola/The New York Times)

When you're planning that al fresco summer party, it's hard not to turn to the ever popular burger. Nothing makes me happier than showing up at a BBQ to find juicy grilled burgers as the main course. They need to be cooked well, moist with some char but not completely blackened. A good way to ensure your burgers don't dry out is to add some ground pork to the mixture. This recipe for Japanese Burgers with Wasabi Ketchup, from today's NY Times, takes it a step further by using half beef and half pork. You'll also see some minced onion mixed in with the meat. I love doing this because the onion is not only sweet but it releases lots of moisture as it cooks, again helping keep that burger nice and juicy. And the kick of wasabi in the ketchup? 'Nuf said...yum.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

Well, we've got dessert and your burgers covered. Now a salad to complete the menu. How about Chilled Shrimp with Cabbage and Peanuts, from today's Washington Post? Succulent rock shrimp add some substance to this light and crunchy salad with an Asian twist. You could easily make the dressing, wash your greens, and cook your shrimp hours ahead of time. Makes throwing this together a snap, and pretty darn gorgeous to boot.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-06-15T10:00:00.000-07:00

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

As spring moves into summer, it's hard to believe some of the abundant produce of the season is already on the way out of the market. While you can still get your hands on them, pick up some favas, artichokes, spring onions, and green garlic. Together in this Mediterranean Artichoke and Fava Stew they flaunt the very best of spring to create a healthful stew that needs little embellishment. I really believe that when you cook with produce that is at the height of its season, much of your work is done for you as the veggies already taste amazing. Crusty bread and a bowl of this stew...that's my kind of dinner.

(Bill Hogan/The Chicago Tribune)

Sometimes you have those nights when you have to raid the pantry for dinner. No matter how well you've prepared yourself there is just nothing in the fridge. We've all been there. In today's Chicago Tribune they provide a bit of pantry inspiration with this Late Night Spaghetti. To call it a recipe is a bit of a stretch but sometimes it takes looking at a "recipe" like this to get your own mind working with what you have in your kitchen. Pasta is a great foil for all the bits of cheese and those briny condiments you have around. This one uses some grated Parm, a bit of tapendade, and crumbled Gogonzola. What can you create with what you have at home?

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

This time of year begins my seasonal ailment-produce overload. I go to the market, buy fruit and veggies that all look incredible, bring them home and cook like crazy for a day or two, then find myself with a fridge full of produce I need to use asap. Russ Parsons, of the LA Times, writes about Breaking the Vegetable Rut via two new books. The first is "A Year in my Kitchen" by Skye Gyngell and the second is "Plenty" by Yotam Ottolenghi. Both London based, they have very different styles: Gyngell being clean and simple and Ottolenghi taking global flavors to create much bolder dishes. I loved the sounds of the Green Pancakes with Lime Butter and the Spicy Moroccan Carrot Salad, punched up with yogurt and tons of cilantro (both from "Plenty").

If you're in the Bay Area and want to taste Ottolenghi's food live and in person, head on over to my all time favorite bookstore, Omnivore, and see if you can get tickets to his dinner at Camino, in Oakland (he's hosting two at Contigo as well but both are already sold out). They are also hosting a book signing from 6-6:45 on 7/12 at the store-it's free and you should not miss it!

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-06-08T08:55:00.000-07:00

School's out today. I have mixed feelings, as always. It's been a fantastic year, and I happen to be one of those people who loves the routine of the weekly schedule. But I'm not going to lie..sleeping in and not packing a lunch sounds damn good right about now.

(Alex Koester/The New York Times)

For those of us who developed our passion for food at the apron strings of a grandparent, take time to read the article in today's NY Times about sons and daughters of immigrants who have taken their parents old family restaurants and made them their own. From Williamsburg, NY to Highland Park, CA, 20 & 30-somethings are seeing the value of the hole-in-the-wall joints they grew up in and the customers are loving it. There is Jason Wang, the 23 year old chef at Xi'an Famous Foods-started in Flushing, Queens and now operating out of 5 locations with a huge cult following, and Diep Tran of Good Girl Dinette in the Highland Park neighborhood of LA, making Chicken Curry Pot Pie inspired by her family's Pho 79 Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you didn't grow up with a tattered book of family recipes, it's tough to not be inspired by this new wave of tradition.

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

Speaking of inspiration from grandparents, my love for phyllo dough comes directly from my Noni. When I was really young I remember her making the dough from scratch and stretching it across her dining room table, it was incredible. In her later years it came from a box, as mine does now, but her ability to work with it, filling the flaky dough with cheese, potato, or spinach, was artful. In our family most of the filling was encased in phyllo triangles, easy to master. This recipe from the LA Times, for Goat Cheese and Basil Stuffed Phyllo Parcels, uses a different technique. After encasing the filling in two sheets of dough, squares are folded like envelopes to expose the basil. You can see how beautiful it looks. Do not be intimated by the dough. The ultra thin sheets need to stay covered on your counter while you're working-I use a sheet of plastic wrap and a damp towel, or they will dry out. Beyond that it's really not hard-if it cracks or breaks, don't worry. Once you fill and fold these babies no one will ever notice those tiny imperfections.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

One of the best things I've ever eaten in my entire life was a sandwich I had in South Carolina. It was white bread, Vidalia onion slices, dripping ripe tomato slices, salt, and mayo. It was at least 12 years ago and I will never forget how amazing each bite tasted. Hence my attraction to this Tomato Pie in today's Washington Post. No, it's not the most sexy dish you'll ever make, and the ingredients are nothing fancy. It's even early to think about making it because you can just tell this is best when you have those uber-ripe tomatoes late in the summer. But, ahhh, a girl can dream....Find me in August and I can assure you I'll be diving into this one.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-06-01T09:52:00.000-07:00

Last night ended a six week series I teach called Basics Three. It's the culmination of many weeks of technique classes and one of my favorite to teach because it's full of students I've known for a long time. This group really impressed me with their massive improvement in the kitchen. "S", who came in with little confidence behind the stove, rocked out pate au choux that was stunning. "M" showed us that he could julienne carrots like a real pro. "K' and "C" fired so many homemade pizzas last night I think they have fall back careers should they ever need them. It showed me why I love to teach so very much. When people learn simple skills, and get to practice in a place with just enough hand holding, they're encouraged to do it more often. It's motivating, educational, and a whole lot of fun. Spring Basics Three-stay in touch, I'll miss you guys.

(Bob Chamberlin/The Los Angeles Times)

Gordon made some mean fried chicken in class last night (this version, which I love) but lately I've been dying to try real Korean fried chicken. I know SF probably has a few good spots (suggestions?) but, from what I hear, LA or NY are the better choices. In today's LA Times Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee writes about the foods of Korea. She says that the Koreans use the word anju to describe dishes that are meant to be eaten with alcohol and goes on to write about these salty, spicy bites in a way that will make you hungry for them, even at 9am. In addition to her etiquette tips for drinking with Koreans (never pour your own drink, turn away when drinking in front of someone 'higher ranking', and never refuse a drink from someone older), she has recipes for some snacks like this smoldering, crunchy Korean Fried Chicken. Double fried and coated in gochujang (Korean chili paste), the bite-sized pieces are perfect beer food no matter where you are.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

Oh no. That's not just any grilled cheese sandwich. It's a Poblano Cheese Sandwich from The Commodore in Brooklyn. Think southern style pimento cheese kicked up with poblanos and you're on the right track. In today's Washington Post, David Hagedorn writes about the tradition of pimento cheese, something I've been dying to make since I saw it on a menu slathering a burger. I'm sure every southern grandma has her own version, the "best" one around. Sharp cheddar mixed with mayo, pimentos, and occasionally cream cheese-you can imagine the variations from there. Try it in a Potato Gratin, a savory Cheesecake, or in this most gluttonous of recipes I've seen in a long time-Fried Pimento Stuffed Sandwiches. I think having a jar in your fridge this summer is a good place to start. You can put it on burgers, crackers, or the old stand-by, celery sticks.

(Bill Hogan/The Chicago Tribune)

Macadamia and Coconut Crusted Fish with Crunchy Pineapple Relish...I know. Some of you will read just that recipe title and roll your eyes thinking I've flashed back to the era of sun dried tomatoes, the Silver Palate Cookbook, and "fusion" cuisine. Hey, I'm with you there but really, is anyone going to complain about the textures and flavors in a dish like this one? Crispy, crunchy fish is outstanding when cooked just right and the acidity in the relish will cut the richness. While I'm not advocating 90's trends like these, I am happy to bring back the era with a dish like this one. Thanks Chicago Tribune.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-05-25T08:37:00.000-07:00

I might be the only person on the planet who isn't watching Oprah's last hurrah but, rest assured I am paying attention to what's happening in food.

(Anne Cusack/The Los Angeles Times)

Swiss Chard is my go-to vegetable at home. Around here it means caramelizing an onion with a handful of minced chard stems, adding torn chard leaves to the pan, and quickly sauteing with some salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. So good and we never have enough. In today's Los Angeles Times there is a recipe for Swiss Chard with Golden Raisins and Bread Crumbs, a southern Italian take on our local, seasonal produce. If you haven't cooked chard, this is a perfect way to try it. It's in the market now-give this one a shot.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Since we're talking good and good for you, I couldn't pass on this Quinoa and Beet Pilaf from the NY Times. I've waxed poetic about the amazing health properties of quinoa many times (most importantly-it's a complete protein and the only other food that can say that is an egg). I am also a big fan of roasted beets. When I make then I do a big batch so I can have them in the fridge all week-perfect for last minute salads. This combination, cooked into a bright, vibrant pilaf, is pretty lovely, don't you think? It uses the beet and beet greens, so be sure to buy them fresh so the greens are still attached. I love the addition of caraway seed and crumbled goat cheese-gorgeous flavors to throw into the mix.

(Craig Lee/SF Chronicle)

If you don't already follow Heidi Swanson's gorgeous blog, 101 Cookbooks, go bookmark it now. Her inspiring writing and stunning photos will have you eating healthy without even realizing it. She's just released her second book, "Super Natural Every Day", and the SF Chronicle loved it in their review on Sunday. If you don't have your hands on this hot new title yet, check out the article for Heidi's recipe for Orzo Salad. This is not your mom's pasta salad-we're talking creme fraiche, broccoli, whole wheat orzo, and even some avocado. You can trust Heidi's recipes to work and taste great. I'm a big fan...can you tell?

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-05-18T08:08:00.000-07:00

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

The first Thai curry dish I ever had was a Massaman Curry at Thai Kitchen in Bellevue, Washington. I know, this eastern suburb of Seattle probably doesn't sound like a Thai food destination but the restaurant was open years before Phad Thai and curries infiltrated the American palate. A friend took me to lunch and introduced me to their mild chicken and potato version of Massaman and I fell in love (with the curry that is). In today's LA Times they've published a Massaman Curry recipe from Cholada Thai in Thousand Oaks. It includes a homemade curry paste, which I highly recommend if you live near a good Asian market. You can find all the ingredients and make a big batch-it'll keep well and you can get your curry fix anytime you like. In a pinch that same Asian market probably carries Mae Ploy brand curry pastes and I think they're pretty darn tasty too.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Prepping artichokes is probably one step up from prepping fava beans when it comes to tasks my cooking students least like to do. Funny, because they are always two of the most loved veggies to eat but man do people hate to trim, peel, trim, de-choke, steam, and cut before they finally get a bite. Of course steaming an artichoke whole means all you have to do is trim those pointy tips from the leaves so you can make it easy on your self and do that. But, with artichokes in season and, here in Northern California, at the cheapest they'll be, it's worth buying a bunch at the farmers' market and trying this recipe from Melissa Clark in The New York Times: Artichokes with Fregola, Feta, Toasted Almonds, and Herbs. She includes a video that is a great primer if you're tackling artichokes for the first time. Fregola is pasta used often in Sardinia. The tiny round pieces are much like Israeli couscous, either will work here. I love the addition of sharp, salty feta and crunchy almonds. This is a perfect spring dish paired with some fresh greens in a simple vinaigrette.

(Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)

Spring peas are another abundant veggie at the market these days. Snap peas, snow peas, and English peas are as good as they get right now. In today's Chicago Tribune you'll learn everything you need to know aout picking and cooking peas to perfection. With cooking methods from all over the world, peas are one of the most versatile veggies in the kitchen. The recipe for Gnochi with Crab and Peas is spring on a plate. It calls for store bought gnocchi but you could of course make your own. Fresh crab is delicate and delicious here but small grilled or sauteed shrimp would also work. Love the tangy addition of creme fraiche too. If this doesn't say "spring" I don't know what does!

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-05-11T08:56:00.000-07:00

(Cooking from the Farmers' Market by Tasha de Serio and Jodi Liano)

I know this post is always a peek at what I think are the best recipes of the week from all my favorite newspaper food sections. Well, this is definitely not a recipe but I couldn't resist. As spring produce starts to bloom, farmers' markets everywhere are getting busier or just opening up. Check out this article in the Chicago Tribune so you can be sure not to be "that guy"-you know the one, who asks for change for his hundred or tells the vendor their product is cheaper at Safeway. The Top 10 Things Not to Say at the Farmers' Market...don't say I didn't warn you. Oh, and while you're there stocking up on strawberries and favas, make sure you have your copy of my book, Cooking from the Farmers' Market, to inspire you when you get back to your kitchen.

(Andrew Schonnemann for Kyel Books: Take Five Ingredients: 95 Delicious Dishes Using Just 5 Ingredients)

Today's Washington Post reviews James Tanner's new book called Take Five Ingredients. While the concept of minimal cooking is certainly nothing new, this recipe for a no bake Gingersnap Mascarpone Cheesecake seems revolutionary. First, there is no oven part. This usually means gelatin to set things up but, not here. And, if you've ever made a traditional cheesecake you know how much time it takes to bake and cool, not to mention nailing both of those steps to avoid oven browning or cracking. Then there is the short list of ingredients-it's just sweetened whipped mascarpone cheese and cream with a bit of fresh vanilla bean. Crumbled gingersnaps get pressed on the top and bottom so for the crust lovers like me, you'll have lots to like. There is so much beauty in such a simple dish. I think you can play with it in infinite ways...I'm thinking berries, maple, honey, chocolate, or nuts. If you give this one a try, let me know how it is and if I beat you to it, I'll report back.

(Erik Jacobs/The Boston Globe)

When one meal can do double duty, busy people like me are always more motivated to get into the kitchen. My family knows I'm not a fan of leftovers but, transforming one dish into something else is an entirely different story. In today's Boston Globe Sheryl Julian writes about the age old idea of Chicken in a Pot. Simply said, it's a poached chicken that comes out moist and succulent every time. She serves it over rice then uses the leftovers to make a belly warming Chicken and Rice Soup. The soup would freeze beautifully so you can always save it for another time but they both look so delicious I don't think anyone would complain about chicken two nights in a row.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-05-04T09:03:00.000-07:00

(Mel Melcon/The Los Angeles Times)

This photo immediately caught my eye in today's Cinco de Mayo recipe slideshow over at the LA Times. It is a Tuna Tostada that looks almost identical to the one I love at Tacolicious (in fact, think it is actually the same recipe, from Contramar restaurant in Mexico City, that inspired their version). These are a perfect appetizer or have two or three and call it dinner. Crisp tortilla rounds are slathered with chipotle mayo and topped with a generous amount of tuna tartar, leeks, and avocado. This version uses wilted leeks but Tacolicious fries their until crispy which I love because the texture contrast is perfection. Either way, find yourself a piece of sushi grade tuna and this dish will treat you right.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Homemade cookies are a no-brainer. Homemade crackers? Not so much. But, why not? They're no more difficult than throwing together a batch of cookies, probably easier as a matter of fact. If you find yourself adding a bag of Goldfish crackers to your shopping cart every week, take a break and make your own. These Cheddar Cheese Crackers, from today's NY Times, are absolutely better for you and, with dough that comes together in the food processor, pretty darn easy too.

(Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)

I'm a sucker for Indian flavors like chile, ginger, and curry. I also happen to call crab my favorite food on the planet. Put them together, in these Curried Crab Cakes from the Chicago Tribune and I'm a happy camper. To me, a good crab cake needs to be all about the crab without tons of other chopped veggies entering the mix (bell peppers? ick!). This recipe lets the crab be the star but uses lots of bold flavors to change it up. I'm sold! I think I'll make them small and serve them as appetizers at my next dinner party topped with a bit of yogurt or chutney.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-04-27T09:10:00.000-07:00

Hope you've recovered from your spring holidays and that you had some wonderful meals to celebrate. Time for some new recipes? I've got you covered.

(Russ Parsons/The Los Angeles Times)

Could anything be better than roast pork? Good question, Russ Parsons, and I think not. In the LA Times the esteemed Mr. Parsons shares his secret to a perfect roasted pork shoulder, and a photo of his own beauty from his Easter dinner. Pork shoulder might just be my all time favorite cut of meat. It's succulent, flavorful, and inexpensive. Yes, it's a tough cut which means it needs slow and low cooking but, this is absolutely low maintenance cooking if I've ever seen it. 325 for a few hours then 450 at the end for that crackling skin-be sure you have an instant read thermometer and you're set. Remember, this is a shoulder on the bone and you want to be sure you buy it from a good butcher. This will ensure you get nice quality meat and that layer of fat on top that not only crisps up in the oven but naturally bastes the meat as it cooks.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

I tweeted about this recipe last week after I literally drooled at the sight of the photo. Melissa Clark, who writes the Good Appetite column in the NY Times (and this wonderful book), is someone to watch. She writes incredibly well tested recipes (they always work) with a keen eye on the busy home cook. She's about honest flavors, simple food, and preparations that make sense to anyone. Trust me, read a few columns or pick up her book and this is someone you'll want to meet over a glass of vino. She wrote this recipe, for a Silky Caramel Rice Flan, after craving a Catalan dish she remembered making years ago. It's a custard based rice pudding cooked like a flan, in a souffle dish lined with a deep, nutty caramel. Inverted onto a plate it looks much like a traditional flan but put your fork in and you're rewarded with a texture that, to me, is a lot tastier and more interesting to eat. I'm a rice pudding nut and when you add that caramel, oh man... Can not wait to make this dessert. Who's coming over?

(Fred Burris/The Washington Post)

Fast and healthy are two words my students love to hear when I introduce them to new recipes. Problem is they are often synonymous with bland. Not this time. In the Washington Post, I found this recipe for Moo Shu Vegetables and it's lacking nothing when it comes to flavor. In addition to sesame oil, ginger, and hoisin, the real secret here is the shredded veggies. Think cabbage, carrots, and zucchini-veggies that stay crunchy after a quick cook. I'd buy them whole and julienne them by hand, but I happen to love that part of cooking. If you haven't sharpened your knife lately (what are you waiting for?) or just need to speed things along, look for a bag of shredded veggies in your produce department. They'll be just fine here and before you know it, your Chinese take out will be on the table in less time than it would've taken the delivery guy to get to your house.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-04-21T08:49:00.000-07:00

Was visiting family in sunny Palm Desert so I apologize for coming at you one day late this week. Back to reality, and back in the kitchen.

(Eric Boyd/The Los Angeles Times)

If you're hosting brunch or dinner this Easter, let the season inspire your menu. Asparagus, strawberries, wild salmon, spring onions, and more...hit the farmers' market and see what grabs you. The Los Angeles Times has a lovely slideshow of seasonal dishes for your table. I'm looking at this Stawberry Crostata and the Asparagus with Lemon Aioli. Keeping it fresh and seasonal means simple, delicious food every time.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

Grilled Tuna Steak with Provencal Vinaigrette is a weeknight dinner full of big flavors with little work. From The Washington Post, I'm reminded that the flavors of Provence lend themselves ideally to simply grilled fish. Tuna works because it's steak-like texture holds up to the grill but this relish-like condiment would be nice with halibut or salmon too. Tomato, capers, olives, and roasted peppers are tossed with the vinaigrette for texture and lots of acidity. The fish is grilled but if it's not nice enough to fire up your outdoor grill, try a grill pan. You'll get a little less of that smoky flavor but it still works in a pinch.

(Craig Lee/The San Francisco Chronicle)

Lamb is the "protein of the season"- Passover or Easter, it is the centerpiece of many tables this week. Most recipes are for slow roasted legs but this version, Honey Glazed Loin Chops, from The San Francisco Chronicle, shaves off hours of time. It's elegant enough for a holiday meal yet quick enough for a Wednesday night. Who say's lamb's just for Easter?

Happy Spring, Happy Holidays, and Happy Reading.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-04-13T08:41:00.000-07:00

Since spring is here, today's favorites all stem from lovely seasonal veggies. Hit your farmers' market and enjoy!

(Mel Melcon/The Los Angeles Times)

Spinach and Parmesan Tart from the LA Times. The marriage of a homemade crust with that creamy rich filling is a match made in heaven. Any greens would work here, I'd love to try it with chard and sub Pecorino for the Parm. Use your imagination-it's really a method to work from and you can let your pantry be your guide. My son was reading over my shoulder as I wrote this and said, "Mom, that would be a lot better with berries and sugar". Yes, you can try a sweet version too.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

The words "rice bowl" conjour up images of hippy food for me. Time to think again. Martha Rose Shulman, who writes the Recipes for Health column in The New York Times talks today about sprouted brown rice. I'm already a convert to brown rice-love the nutty taste and texture, especially when perfectly cooked using this method. Sure, sprouted brown rice is healthier but, Martha is a fan because she says it is "sweeter and more delicate" than regular brown rice. It can be found at health food stores and is packaged just like the traditional variety-it's dried after it has been sprouted so it isn't so perishable (you can even make your own). I'm hunting some down so I can make her modern rice bowl-lemon infused olive oil (I like Round Pond's), spinach, and smoked trout.

(Tribune Co. photo)

Fennel is one of my favorite vegetables. Also called anise, it has a faint licorice scent but don't let that steer you away. Black licorice is not my thing-you can take my Ouzo and Sambuca from me any day. This is a sweeter flavor-very subtle but unique in its own right. Raw or cooked, I'll take it either way. Diane Rossen Worthington, in today's Chicago Tribune, shares her very simple method for roasting fennel. Cut in big wedges and paired with some leek, garlic, and olive oil it caramelizes beautifully and you'll be amazed how fantastic it is. A perfect spring side with lamb or fish, give it a try if you haven't before.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-04-06T14:46:00.000-07:00

Happy Spring...here's what I'm loving in the food sections today.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Last night was the final class in my six-week Basics One series. We went around the table talking about our dream meals, the last one we'd have if we could eat anything at all. Tim, near the end. said he'd have a rack of amazing BBQ ribs-of course this caused a handful of other people to quickly change their minds and switch to ribs too. There's just something about sweet, smoky, succulent pork ribs...mmm. In today's NY Times I saw this recipe for Sweet-Sour Balsamic Glazed Ribs, adapted from the carnivorous Animal restaurant in Los Angeles. One step not to be missed is removing the membrane from the back of the rack. If you forget to do this (or ask your butcher to do it for you), each rib will have a sticky skin that is all together unpleasant at the table (take it from one who knows). These ribs are cooked in the oven, first at a low heat then very high to crisp them up. You could also finish them on the grill for an extra smoky flavor but Jon and Vinny, the dudes at Animal, swear by the all-oven method.

(Ricard DeArantaha/The Los Angeles Times)

Butterscotch Brownies? Oh my. In today's LA Times they reveal the recipe for Clementine Bakery's version of the Blondie. Made with lots of brown sugar, a touch of salt, toasted walnuts, and no chocolate, this sweet bar would make an ideal afternoon snack or lunch box surprise. I think I'd substitute pecans for the walnuts-to me they are just a better match for that butterscotch flavor, almost maple-like on their own.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

Sugar cookies aren't just for decorating at the holidays. Even though that's when most of us generally pullout the recipe, why not eat them today? This recipe, in today's Washington Post and drawn from the new cookbook Bite Me, by Toronto sisters Julie Albert and Lisa Gnat, is glazed simply with powdered sugar and lemon juice. Rather than topping them with sugary icing, like we do at the holidays, I love the idea of the soft cookies being glazed with lemon (I'd use Meyer lemon, but that's just me). I've always found that sugar cookies keep well in a tin too so make a batch and they'll last you a while. Yeah, right-let's see how long they'll last.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

2011-03-30T09:10:00.000-07:00

The best of what I've read from the food sections...enjoy!

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Braising is my favorite method of cooking. Slow and low heat transforms tough (and cheap!) cuts of meat into that melt-in-your mouth texture that screams "comfort". In today's New York Times John Willoughby writes about braising without browning, odd to those of us used to the traditional method of coaxing out flavor from those caramelized meat juices. Like John, I've made some Moroccan and Greek stews that skipped the browning step and, I'll admit, they were still damn tasty. He sums it up well when he calls the flavors "less robust, but equally flavorful, in a gentler way". Try it out with these Braised Chicken Thighs with Indian Flavors. Lots of fabulous spices and seasoning are sure to make you forget you skipped the browning, and your splatter-less kitchen will appreciate it too.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

Making homemade puff pastry is a chore. A "laminated" dough means it requires several hours of chilling and turning-a process of folding the dough, rolling it out, chilling it down, and doing it all again and again. It's a labor of love that creates the flaky layers we adore in this dough. Several years ago I discovered a "quick" method by Nick Malgieri and the LA Times has their own version here. Using a food processor to cut in the butter eliminates some of the turns and folds but still yields amazing dough that you can use in dozens of ways. I particularly like the Savory Mushroom Turnovers but if sweets are more up your alley, the Fresh Berry Tart looks like a perfect spring dessert.

(Jonathan Lovekin/the Observer)

Angels on Horseback are traditionally oysters wrapped in bacon and grilled or broiled. Devils on Horseback subs the oysters for dried fruit. Dating back over 100 years, you'd think these appetizers were very 21st century-isn't everything wrapped in bacon these days? Nigel Slater, of the Observer, takes this British nibble and gives it a twist by wrapping prunes in bacon and stuffing them with a bit of mango chutney. I love the sweet/smoky/savory combination here, and the texture contrast between the crispy bacon and tender fruit. I've done this with dates and dried figs, stuffed them with cheese and almonds, and used pancetta in place of bacon-it's all good. Pick your favorite dried fruit, be as simple or as creative as you like with the fillings, and bring on the bacon. Before you know it you'll have a whole new version of an appetizer your great, great grandma used to eat.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-03-23T09:51:00.000-07:00

Good and good for you. Here's what's cooking in today's food sections.

(Richard Perry/The New York Times)

Jonathan Waxman is a pioneer of sorts. With culinary roots in the Bay Area (Chez Panisse) and Santa Monica, Waxman ventured east in the mid-80s to open the legendary Jams in New York. He took a sabbatical from the scene for ten+ years but returned in 2003 to open Barbuto, again in New York, and get back to his love for cooking all things Italian. I've yet to go but hear he roasts the best chicken around. Today's New York Times has an insightful profile of Jonathan-trust me, it'll make you hungry. To channel his amazing cooking, always simple and fresh, try this recipe for Gnocchi with Spring Vegetables and Basil from his new book, Italian My Way.

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

Happy Persian New Year, if you celebrated this week. If not, it's not too late. Especially with this recipe from the LA Times for Chickpea and Noodle Soup with Persian Herbs. Lentils are seasoned with mint and cilantro, fortified with chickpeas and pasta, and topped with kashk-a Persian yogurt that can be found at most Middle Eastern markets (then again, you can of course you regular yogurt). I love the rib sticking, belly warming nature of this soup. A one-pot meal that happens to be vegetarian too.

(photo from The Washington Post)

I'm a huge fan of broccoli rabe, also known as rapini. You see it in Italian as well as Chinese cooking. It's distinctive flavor can be described as bitter but, a quick blanch usually takes care of that, making it nuttier and delicious. Believe it or not, it's from the turnip family, not the broccoli family-sure they look alike but the flavor is all together different. My favorite way to cook it is, after a quick blanch, sauteing it with garlic, chili flakes, anchovy, and good olive oil. Today's Washington Post, has another idea; Broccoli Rabe and New Potato Salad. Just when I thought I'd seen every variation of potato salad this recipe crossed my desk. A simple vinaigrette is tossed with the warm potatoes and rapini, creating that necessary acidic balance. Warm or room temp I think this is a perfect way change things up when it comes to veggies.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-03-16T09:55:00.000-07:00

Some stick to your ribs dishes from today's food sections. Enjoy.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

I love leeks. I think the spring vegetable is under-rated. This tame sister of the onion family gets delicately sweet when cooked and pairs perfectly with cream and potato, as in Melissa Clark's Potato Leek Gratin in today's New York Times. A traditional recipe like this reminds us that sometimes you just need comfort food-cheesy, rich, and rooted in French cuisine.

(Genaro Molina/The Los Angeles Times)

Tomorrow is St. Patrick's Day and I'd be remiss to get though this blog entry without a nod to the cuisine of Ireland. Nothing is more traditional (here in the US at least) than Corned Beef and Cabbage. This succulent version from the LA Times is glazed with bourbon and brown sugar. It may not be your mom's corned beef but it is sure to please. To me the best part is the leftovers-Rueben anyone?

(Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)

Not just coffee cake but coffee IN the cake. That's what makes this Irish Coffee Coffee Cake from the Chicago Tribune a little something special. With Bailey's and Irish coffee, this cake might be better for dessert than breakfast but, who's really keeping track? Either way, the tender cake and crumb topping have me hooked already...and it's not even lunch time.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking...

One Family, One Meal

2011-03-15T14:35:00.000-07:00

I've had a crazy sweet tooth lately. I'm blaming it on our drizzly, gray weather...it's like a magnet pulling me into my kitchen and begging me to bake.

It started with this Cinnamon Pull Apart Bread from Joy the Baker...unreal:

Next I found this recipe for Lemon Sticky Buns. I left this one to my friend (and baker extraordinaire) Mindy and lived vicariously through her photos:

(photo from thekitchn.com)

Next I got suckered into these, "The Best Homemade Chocolate Chip Cookies in the World". Always on the quest for chocolatey cookies that stay nice and soft, these did the trick (especially when I accidentally added twice as much chocolate):

(photo from wordstoeatby.blogspot.com)

Finally, my quest took me to my friend Amanda's fantastic website, One Family, One Meal. Before I get to the cookies, let me just take a second to introduce you to the site, which may quickly become your new best friend. Amanda takes time every week to test and plan a set of menus. She posts the family-friendly recipes, along with shopping lists, and it all comes to you for free. You can save the recipes you like on her site and create shopping lists based on what you decide to cook. As a busy, working mom of two, Amanda knows what it takes to get a homemade meal on the table. We share a passion for creating homemade food and sharing it around the table. She too loves family dinner. Take a look at what she's created-I think you'll love it. And, while your there, satisfy you sweet tooth with her Oatmeal Scotchies:

What I'm Reading Today

2011-03-09T08:36:00.000-08:00

Healthy chicken and homemade Pop Tarts...it's a good day in the world of food writing! Enjoy.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Melissa Clark does it again with her Sake Steamed Chicken with Ginger and Scallions in today's NY Times. Succulent from a long steam bath, this chicken cooks entirely unattended, the sauce takes about two minutes to mix up, and I can already imagine the fragrance that hits the plate when this bird comes to dinner. While the base recipe calls for simply serving the chicken "as is", I love her variation that shreds the chicken, tosses it with Napa cabbage, and adds a ginger soy dressing (maybe some crispy wonton strips too?). Dinner, tonight.

(Anne Cusack/The Los Angeles Times)

Look closely. Those aren't cardboard-like store bought Pop Tarts. These are homemade pop tarts courtesy of the LA Times. Hello! Flaky pie dough filled with any filling your heart desires and, yes, popped in the toaster for that perfect finish. Here is the crust recipe, plus a few variations to get you going: frangipane, Nutella, fruit preserves, or chocolate ganache. And, if you're going for it, they've even created a step by step slide show to walk you through your pop tart construction...who knew?

(Tracy A. Woodward/The Washington Post)

Comforting soup is one of my favorite all time foods to both make and eat. I teach a lot of soup classes and always tell my students that homemade soup is a perfect way to motivate yourself to get into the kitchen. The recipes are flexible (no leeks? use onion. no stock? use water), healthful, and lend themselves perfectly to being made in advance. This Lamb, Leek, and Potato Soup from the Washington Post is a well balanced one pot meal-lamb, barley, and parsnips along with other savory veggies simmer together for a bit over an hour to create an almost stew-like dish. Crusty bread and you're all set.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-03-02T08:52:00.000-08:00

Believe it or not, spring is starting to show it's face already. March is here and it's still raining (or snowing) but, head to the market and signs of the seasons changing are definitely evident. Here's to sunny skies and lovely produce to come.

(Mark DuFrene/Mercury News)

In today's Mercury News, Jackie Burrell tempts the start of spring with her take on my favorite fruit, the ripe and gorgeous strawberry. We chatted last week about why I love the early season berries (so over pears and apples!) and my favorite ways to use them, Strawberry Creme Fraiche Ice Cream and Strawberry Rhubarb Compote. One read through and you'll be hitting your farmers' market asap to get your hands on a fresh, ripe box.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Who knew leftover oatmeal could anchor such an amazing looking muffin? In today's New York Times, Martha Rose Shulman takes a healthy look at muffins (yes, there is such a thing). Her Steel Cut Oatmeal and Blueberry Muffins are full of buttermilk to keep them moist and tender, plus maple syrup instead of the loads of sugar usually called for in these "cupcakes in disguise". A combination of steel cut oats, whole wheat flour, and white flour will create a lovely texture and throw in those blueberries...I'm sold.

(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Artichokes are a labor of love. I'm not going to lie to you, they take time and effort to prep if you do anything more than simply steam them but, when these awkward looking thistles come into the market, it's hard to resist (much like the beloved fava beans). In today's LA Times this indulgent recipe for Baby Artichoke Gratin looks absolutely fantastic. Yes, there is work involved in prepping these little guys but the baby artichokes are much easier to deal with then their more mature siblings. A homemade garlic aioli is "lightened" (ha!) with heavy cream, the blanched artichokes get folded in, and the top sprinkled with fresh Parm. After a quick trip under the broiler you won't believe how fantastically rich and amazing those prickly little vegetables can be.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-02-23T10:35:00.000-08:00

Today we're talking seafood. We should all eat more of it, right? If ever you're concerned about which fish are best to eat (because trust me-many are not so good), check out Seafood Watch from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. You can even download their app to your phone so when you're at the fish market you know you're making smart decisions.

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

Cioppino is what you might call San Francisco-Italian-Portuguese food. The name is derived from the Italian word for "chopped" and the dish dates back as far as the late 1800s. The different versions of this rich tomato seafood stew are astounding. It's my dad's favorite and I know he's tried every bowl he can get his hands on, but him making it from scratch is always the best. So when Russ Parsons of the LA Times decided to tackle cioppino, I knew I had to check it out. First he writes a general method for creating your own signature batch. I love when he says "there is not an ingredient that can't be questioned". In other words, make it your own. That said, if you're the recipe type and want a base from which to cook, try his actual recipe. I'd leave out the bell pepper but, I don't think he'd mind.

(Alexandra Grablewski/The Washington Post)

I love chowder. It's the Seattle girl in me, no doubt about that, we grew up eating it all the time. A few years ago I found a recipe for chowder with salmon-I started teaching it in my cooking classes and it was an instant hit. This Salmon Chowder, from The Washington Post, is equally as simple but the addition of bacon and clam juice will give it even more flavor. There is also heavy cream, a good cup and half of the stuff, so this isn't your every night soup. I think half-and-half would work just fine (a little less rich but still nice and thick). You thicken the soup w/flour and butter at the end so even milk would probably do the trick.

(MCT photo)

To round out this seafood edition, how about some coconut shrimp? Since we paid homage to my dad's favorite dish, I think it's only fair we give my mom some love too. She is a huge fan of coconut shrimp and can tell you from one bite if they're made with good quality shrimp and if the batter is just right. They're a splurge in terms of calories but this is Oven Baked Coconut Shrimp, baked instead of fried so you can enjoy them a bit more often. I like this version because it takes shell-on shrimp and brines them for a few hours first. This keeps the shrimp nice and moist when they're baked, because no one likes shrimp that tastes like rubber bands. A little sweet and spicy chili sauce on the side and I think this one might even pass my mom's test.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking.

Old Friends and Cookies

2011-02-21T08:20:00.000-08:00

Before I began my career in the culinary world, I spent many years at a desk doing a "real" job. I have watched lots of ex co-workers climb their respective corporate ladders and seen a few of them do what I did, leave the office behind to follow a dream.

One of those people is Michael Pinckney of Pinckney Cookie Cafe. Micheal worked his tail off in the corporate world for many years when he realized his signature chocolate chip cookie might just be more interesting to him. He made the leap and started his cookie business, selling cookies online and in many Whole Foods (if you happen to be in the Seattle area). We chatted last week and he told me about the business. He's expanding it to carts, selling cookies along with milk, coffee, and cocoa on the streets of Seattle and beyond (more on that here). He asked if he could send me some cookies and, if I was a fan, would I write about them. I admitted I don't usually do this but, he's a friend and I do love a good cookie so here we are.

Here's what I love most about these cookies-they taste homemade. They are rich, chewy, and not too sweet. The softness of the cookie flirts with the texture of cookie dough (and, admit it, isn't eating the dough the best part anyways?). I think they'd be unreal after a minute in a toaster oven. Right out of the package, they taste and feel very fresh, even with no preservatives in the ingredients at all. And speaking of ingredients, nothing you wont recognize here-same stuff you use to bake cookies at home. There is the Classic Chocolate Chip but the Coco, Bling Bing, and Pinckney Original introduce things like chocolate infused dough, orange zest, and coconut to the party. These are no ordinary cookies.

These are store bought cookies you could unwrap, put on a platter, and pass off as your own any day (I promise I wont tell). If you live in the Seattle area, check your local Whole Foods but if you're not in the area, you can buy some here. I think you'll love 'em as much as I do.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-02-16T07:44:00.000-08:00

Rain, wind, colder temps...so much for all that bragging I've been doing about sunny California. Guess it's time to get back in the kitchen. My remedy yesterday was Tuesday Recipe's amazing homemade chai tea. Today I'm looking at these:

(Anne Cusack/The Los Angeles Times)

I'm not a fan of apple desserts. I'll crunch a crisp cold apple and love good applesauce but cooked apples in tarts, pies, and cakes have never turned me on. However, I've heard so many amazing things about Huckleberry Cafe in Santa Monica that I might, just might, bite the bullet and give their Whole Wheat Apple Cake a try. From today's LA Times, the recipe uses almond meal, corn meal, white flour, and whole wheat flour (with a pound of butter, ahem...don't confuse this with healthy) to make a cake full of caramelized apples. The moisture from the apples probably goes a long way in giving this cake great texture. For you apple dessert fans, give this one a shot and let me know how it is. Maybe it'll make me a convert.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Hash again! I'm crazy about these veggie-based hash recipes that have become so en vouge, especially when a poached or fried egg shows up on top. In today's NY Times, Martha Rose Shulman of the "Recipes for Health" column takes on hash and I'm loving this version: Beet Greens and Potato Hash. The potatoes (and greens) are steamed then sauteed in olive oil for that crunchy exterior. Steaming them first means a quicker pan fry which in turn means less oil-crisp and still good for you. Also love the idea of tossing any leftovers with a simple vinaigrette for a fantastic potato salad. If the beet greens aren't getting you excited, she also has recipes for these variations: Brussels Sprouts and Roasted Winter Squash or Mushroom with Wild Black Rice.

Everyone knows we should eat more fish. Sole is what I'd call the "gateway fish", for those of you out there trying to convince non-fish eaters that it really can be delicious. In the San Francisco Chronicle, Amanda Gold writes about quick dinners and I love her very simple recipe for Sole with Cara Cara Oranges, Avocado, and Red Onion Salsa. Any sweet oranges work here but the pink color of those Cara Caras is certainly lovely. Sole, being a flat fish, is sold in very thin fillets that cook in no time, perfect for a weeknight dinner. However, if you're a fan of another fish, I think this salsa is incredibly flexible and the acidity would pair with anything from salmon to bass.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Happy Valentine's Day

2011-02-13T03:34:00.000-08:00

Happy Valentine's Day

May your day be filled with sweets like these!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-02-09T11:39:00.000-08:00

I'm cooking dinner for some extended family tonight and found myself at a loss when planning the menu. The sun is shining bright out here and my usual February braises and stews just don't feel right. So, I'm bucking the season and fixing a summer-like meal, fit for the weather and plenty delicious-baby back ribs, slaw, a watermelon and feta salad, and parsnip/potato mash (ok, that part is definitely not summery). So Cal strawberries are at the market too. Not the finest of the season but after too many months of apples and pears they are tasting delish to me. I'm feeling some shortcake...

Here's what I'm reading today:

(Glenn Koenig/The Los Angeles Times)

My go-to slaw is pretty straight forward-bit of mayo, vinegar, celery seed, sugar, and some s&p. Sort of looks like the forgotten cousin to his version, Curried Slaw from Mustard's Grill in Yountville, via the LA Times. Equally as simple, but a hell of a lot more exciting, this is a mayo-free slaw, which I know a lot of people love. It calls for "prepared Indian curry paste", not something I keep on hand so I'm going to make mine with a bit of Thai red curry paste instead. I'm sure either would be fine. Love the idea of stuffing it into a sandwich with shredded chicken too...yum.

(Peter Frank Edwards/The New York Times)

My first, and only, real Southern style Shrimp and Grits was at a tiny restaurant on Kiawah Island, South Carolina. It was sensational, buttery, rich, and amazing (topped only by my next meal of fried chicken livers, grits, and gravy...oh lord). I've never made the dish because it has felt like one of those things that could never live up to my memory. Today, however, I read The New York Times article about chef Sean Brock at Charleston's Husk restaurant. Brock brings modern techniques to Southern classics but this recipe for Shrimp and Grits with Roasted Tomato, Fennel, and Smoked Sausage echos many traditional flavors. At the restaurant he tops his with braised and fried ribbons of pig's ear but if you want to leave that out of your version, I think it'll be just fine.

(Laura Edwards & Kyle Cathie/The Guardian)

If you're feeling like this year is the time to get away from chocolates on Valentine's Day, let The Guardian help you out with these gorgeous Rose Water Turkish Delight candies. Studded with pistachios and just chewy enough, Turkish Delight is not too sweet but still a wonderful homemade treat. While you're over there you'll also see the recipes for Raspberry and Passion fruit Pastilles (much like French Fruit Gelée) and Pink and White Vanilla Marshmallows, playful and quite adorable I might add.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Valentine's Day (or Any Day) Dinner

2011-02-07T09:14:00.000-08:00

(Craig Cutler/Bon Appétit)

I've heard from so many of you that you're planning to make my Valentine's Day menu from Bon Appétit for your sweetie next week. Personally, I think it's a great dinner for any time so you really don't need to wait for Februrary 14th. If a delicious steak or indulgent burrata salad sound good tonight, go for it. It truly is that simple.

Feel free to email me any questions you have about the menu-how to get it all done in time, quick shortcuts, etc. In return, I want to know how it goes! Head on over to the Valentine's Day Menu for Two page on Bon Appétit's website and leave your comments. I'll check in over there and see how you did. It makes my day to hear about your culinary adventures.

Whether it's Valentine's Day, a birthday, a dinner party, or just a Wednesday...any or all of these recipes will be a hit:

Poached Shrimp in Lemon Horseradish Dipping Sauce

Radicchio and Arugula Salad with Roasted Red Pepper Dressng & Burrata Crostini

Pan-Seared Strip Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce & Pink Peppercorn Butter

Celery Root and Parsnip Puree

Lemon Ice Cream and Raspberry Granita Sundaes with Lemon Shortbread Hearts

Happy Cooking and Have Fun.

What I'm Reading Today

2011-02-02T07:59:00.000-08:00

I hope you're keeping cosy where ever you are. It is days like this, among many others, I am incredibly grateful to live in sunny California. With a high of 60 and clear blue skies, you can almost forget it's winter. That is, until you check the weather and realize most of the country is digging out of snow and ice. To keep your bellys full and warm, here are a few winter recipes to inspire you. Heck, if you're stuck inside you mine as well cook, right? Enjoy.

(Glenn Koenig/The Las Angeles TImes)

The ideal cold weather food is chili. This Turkey Chili , from The LA Times, is made with both guajillo and chipotle peppers. Both smoked, they provide not only heat but a real depth of flavor that will set this chili apart from some of it's more bland brothers. I always use dark meat ground turkey when I cook because the white meat tends to get really dry really fast. Also, I only buy ground turkey from a butcher who grinds it on site. The same applies to any ground meat, for that matter. I feel better knowing where it was ground, what's in it, and that it is fresh. Remember, chili is an ideal one pot meal. Serve it with a big salad and no matter how cold it is outside you'll be happy inside.

(Ruth Fremson/The NY Times)

On the rare occasion I'm snowed in, I love tackling a kitchen project outside my usual repertoire. These Mushroom Spring Rolls in Lettuce Cups, a recipe by Jean-Georges Vongerichten in the NY Times are just that kind of recipe. Definitely not difficult but a bit time consuming (although the recipe makes eight large spring rolls so you wont be rolling all day). The mushroom filling, spiked with lemon, Thai chili, and fresh chervil, is vegetarian but full of flavor. You can roll these early in the day and keep them covered in the fridge, even freeze them if they're tightly wrapped. No getting around the fact that they are fried so if you're diving in, make sure you know the key points of perfect deep frying. Your oil must be hot enough (if it isn't the rolls will be in the oil far too long, getting greasy instead of crispy). You also need to be sure you have plenty of oil in your pot. If it isn't enough (about two-thirds full), it will take extra long to fry, again creating oil-laden spring rolls, not golden brown and crunchy. The filling is pre cooked so they won't fry too long (about 5 minutes). And, hey, you don't deep fry often...why not indulge a bit?

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

I'd be remiss if I didn't include one Super Bowl-worthy recipe today. Loving this take on salsa verde, Pepita-Tomatillo Dip from The Washington Post. Crunchy pumpkin seeds and fresh tomatillos are spiked with jalapeno and sweetened with a bit of honey. Easy, easy and my guess is this one tastes even better the day after you make it. Fire it up on Saturday, buy a big bag of your favorite chips (I love these), and settle in for the big game. It's short on time and long on flavor...may the best team win.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking! Stay warm out there...

What I'm Reading Today

2011-01-25T10:35:00.000-08:00

I spent the morning talking Eggs with Betsy Karetnick of Everyday Food on Martha Stewart Radio. She's fantastic and if you have satellite radio, take the time to tune into her show. It's full of great, practical tips you'll use all the time in your kitchen. Dial it up and check it out. In the meantime, here's what I'm reading today.

(Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times)

In Sunday's NY Times Pete Wells wrote about the ubiquitous chicken nugget and how fascinated our kids are with the crispy mystery meat. While taking a stance not to serve them at home, he set about trying to find an alternative his boys would love. I'm totally sold on his pick, Brooklyn Bowl Fried Chicken. The recipe skips all those extra steps of brining, buttermilk soaking, marinating, etc. and simply takes bone-on chicken pieces and dips them in egg whites then a mix of matzoh meal and flour. Fried in veg oil then coated with a simple spice mixture, he drizzles it with honey and, come on, who could resist that? It's my next fried chicken project and my son better love it as much as his did because I've got a feeling it'll become a regular around here.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

More chicken? Well, I couldn't resist this Cuban version from El Colmao in Los Angeles, via the LA Times. Pollo al Comao is chicken that's baked slowly then braised on the stove top with a chile spiked tomato sauce. Finished with briny olives, and served with black beans and rice, it's hearty cold weather food at its finest. Just look at it--Yum.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

You know I love pureed vegetable soups and cauliflower might be my fave. This very simple vegetarian Cauliflower Pesto Soup from The Washington Post is topped with a deconstructed pesto (read: basil and toasted pine nuts) but that easy garnish is what makes it special. The crunch of the nuts and the freshness of the basil will be perfection with the silky soup. Pair it with a crunchy salad (I'm loving this escarole salad from the February Bon Appetit) and you've got dinner.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Martha Stewart Radio...and Me!

2011-01-23T19:07:00.000-08:00

Did you know Martha Stewart had her own station on satellite radio? Of course you did, she's got it going on all over the place. Well, this Tuesday I'll be interviewed on the "Everyday Food" show, 9:15 pacific time and 12:15 eastern. The topic will be Eggs for Dinner and since my book, Eggs, is being released (outside of Williams Sonoma) this March, they figured I might be able to shed a little light on the subject.

If you have Sirius radio, it's channel 112 and on XM radio it's channel 157. If you are not a subscriber, the best and only way to listen is to get a free 30 day subscription at here**.

Hope you'll give me a listen.

**Be sure to read the fine print and cancel at the end of your trial period if you don't want to be automatically billed.

Bon Appétit

2011-01-21T09:15:00.000-08:00

Many of you have heard of the changes taking place at Bon Appétit . I for one am anxious and excited to see what becomes of the magazine with Adam Rapoport at the helm. I mean who doesn't need a style make-over from the former style editor at GQ, right?

(Craig Cutler for Bon Appetit)

The February issue begins the transition to the new team and I am thrilled to be part of it.

If you have your issue, turn to page 68 to see my article. Called Without Reservations, I created a Valentine's dinner menu for two to keep you from the hassles of those overbooked and overpriced restaurants that never end up being as great as you'd hoped. This year make dinner for your sweetie and eat in. How does this menu sound?

Poached Shrimp in Lemon Horseradish Dipping Sauce

Radicchio and Arugula Salad with Roasted Red Pepper Dressng & Burrata Crostini

Pan-Seared Strip Steak with Red Wine Pan Sauce & Pink Peppercorn Butter

Celery Root and Parsnip Puree

Lemon Ice Cream and Raspberry Granita Sundaes with Lemon Shortbread Hearts

It's my first article in the magazine, hopefully more to come. Bon Appétit is a magazine I grew up with and I still feel it's the best place for home cooks to turn for weeknight inspiration as well as special recipes that wow. It's cooking from the pantry at its finest and I look forward to seeing it move onto this next phase of its life.

(Craig Cutler for Bon Appetit)

What I'm Reading Today

2011-01-19T08:30:00.000-08:00

We've all heard that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Well, it is. Protein in the morning kick starts your day like nothing else, giving you the energy you need when the caffeine wears off and keeping you on track for the chaos that is your morning. Eggs are a great bet, like the Balsamic Fried Eggs from San Francisco's Foreign Cinema. But that's not all...in today's San Francisco Chonicle you'll find a slide show with 15 different easy breakfast ideas, from Green Smoothies to Ricotta Pancakes, even a Quinoa and Berry Parfait. After reading this article recently where it mentions one in five of us get our breakfast at McDonald's I think everyone deserves a little kitchen inspiration when it comes to that oh so important meal.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

I taught a class all about veggies last night and the favorite recipe of the evening was a celery root soup-made very simply with celery root, shallots, and celery sauteed in butter until tender, simmered in water, and pureed. The citrus flavor that comes from celery root manages to be rich and light at the same time. In today's New York Times this Celery Root, Potato, and Apple Puree caught my eye. I've been loving Martha Rose Shulman's "Recipes for Health" column lately because she manages to write healthful recipes that actually look, sound, and taste appealing-no sacrificing taste for nutrition here. This mashed potato alternative will not only be lighter than your usual butter and cream filled batch (not that there's anything wrong with those), but the apple and celery root create a dish that has big flavor. I think mashed potatoes are often a vehicle for something else-sauces or stews-but not necessarily tasty on their own. Adding celery root and apple makes this a dish that can now stand on it's own...welcome to the table mashed potatoes.

(Franck Allais and Ed Johns/the Guardian)

Over in the UK, the Guardian's Marcus Wareing writes a series of quick and easy dinner recipes. I particularly liked today's Brussels Sprouts, Chorizo, and Barley "Hot Pot". Not a hot pot in the true Asian sense but, an almost-one-pot meal that needs little else to become a filling and delicious dinner. Pearl barley is simmered while chorizo and caramelized onions mingle with a little tomato and smoky paprika. It all gets tossed together with golden Brussels sprouts to become almost paella like in its flavors by the end. I love his suggestion to substitute sun dried tomatoes for the chorizo if you want to keep this vegetarian, but I can't personally imagine forgoing the chorizo...that's just me.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

Raspberry Swirl Sweet Rolls

2011-01-15T13:35:00.000-08:00

In the January issue of Food & Wine, their amazing recipe czar Grace Parisi wrote about using frozen fruit in the winter. I loved it because apple and pears start to wear on me pretty quickly, and I always keep my freezer stocked with IQF berries. IQF means individually quick frozen which means they were frozen individually before being packaged, preventing a giant ice block of berries and keeping each one nice and distinct from the rest.

The recipe that grabbed me were these Raspberry Swirl Sweet Rolls. Being a total sucker for an amazing cinnamon roll, I knew I'd have to try them. Think cinnamon roll dough stuffed with juicy berries instead of gooey sugar. The dough was perfection-brioche like with eggs and butter and super easy to work with every step of the way. The filling is simply berries, sugar, and a bit of cornstarch. I rolled and cut mine, put them in the fridge over night, and let them rise again on the counter this morning. After baking and frosting them I have to tell you, WOW! The dough it light and not too sweet and the filling is all about the berries. I think the best part is the juice from the berries that sunk to the bottom of the pan. It soaks into the buns so that each bite you take is bursting with sweet raspberry juiciness...heavenly.

Instead of inverting the finished rolls, I cut them apart and put them on a sil-pat lined baking sheet (I didn't want that gooey raspberry bottom sticking to anything). I frosted them with the glaze and we'll see how long they last. While the last thing we need around here is a big batch of sweet rolls, I've got a feeling these might vanish before I can give them away.

Soup-er Way to Eat your Veggies

2011-01-14T13:39:00.000-08:00

Cooking without a recipe is something I'd love to see everyone do more of in 2011. Start here with pureed vegetable soup-nothing could be easier. Etching the basic steps in your memory will allow you to raid your fridge and pantry and pull together a fantastic meal any day of the week, no recipes needed.

The first step is to think about what's in season. Right now that means winter squash, root vegetables, mushrooms, broccoli, leafy greens, cauliflower (like my Curried Cauliflower Soup, above), and anything else that grabs you at the farmers' market. If you're a smart shopper some of these veg are already in your kitchen, right? Good answer!

Next, start with a dice of onion and celery. If you want, a bit of minced garlic, shallot, or a diced carrot go along way in adding flavor too. If you don't have them, no worries. Saute these aromatics in some olive oil and/or butter (with a pinch of salt) until they're tender. Now, pick your veg of choice and cut it into bite sized pieces. Remember, this soup will get pureed so perfect knife skills don't matter here but the more evenly sized the pieces are the more likely they'll cook at the same rate (plus, smaller pieces cook much faster). Saute the veg pieces with the aromatics for a few minutes then add your liquid. This can be stock (chicken, beef, veggie, or mushroom all work) or even water. Stock contributes great flavor while water lets the veg be the true star. A combination of both works too. Add enough liquid to submerge your veggies, bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the veggies are very tender. The time it takes depends on what you're cooking-squash will take a whole lot longer than mushrooms. Just taste them occasionally and you'll get there in 15-30 minutes. Once everything is very soft, puree the soup with an immersion blender or by transferring it (in batches) to a regular blender. Return the soup to the pot, taste it and season with salt and pepper (a squeeze of lemon is nice too). Occasionally it's too thick and needs a bit more liquid. If it isn't thick enough for you, continue to simmer it, reducing it down for a bit more depth. Another trick is to add a peeled, diced potato to the soup before pureeing-this gives it a lot more body and, in my opinion, a lovely, silky mouth feel at the end.

Once you have the technique down you can play with lots of flavors. Adding curry paste to the aromatics and using some coconut milk for the liquid creates a nice Thai influence. Miso and dashi go beautifully with mushrooms for a Japanese influenced soup. Chili flakes and anchovy paste punch up broccoli or broccoli rabe-drizzle with lemon juice and your favorite olive oil here too.

Because pureed soups are very smooth, I like to garnish them with something that adds a bit of texture-buttery toasted croutons, fried sage leaves, roasted nuts, or thin crisp breadsticks. Add a lightly dressed bowl of greens and dinner is done.

Would love to hear about your favorite veggie soup-what's cooking at your house?

What I'm Reading Today

2011-01-12T14:53:00.000-08:00

Sorry for the delayed post. I spent my morning speaking at my son's school on the importance of family dinners and cooking at home. It was a good reality check for me as I often forget that many, many people depend on restaurants, deli counters, and take out for dinner, eating their food on the run and rarely sitting down for a home cooked meal. Make it a goal in 2011 to sit down and eat with your family or friends more often. It's amazing what happens when you enjoy a home cooked meal together!

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

I talked a lot this morning about incorporating whole grains into meals and the idea that soups are the perfect vehicle for them, especially grains like quinoa, bulgar, farro, or rice. In today's NY Times Martha Rose Shulman, who's ears must have been burning, writes about Healthy Soups with Grains. These are what I call "whole meal" soups, dishes you can call dinner without making sides and salads to go along with them them. They're deeply satisfying and good for you, what's better than that in the middle of winter? I'm loving the Chicken Soup with Lemon and Bulgar as well as the Farro and Vegetable Soup with dried porcinis for deep, rich umami flavor. Keep whole grains on hand and soups like these are incredibly simple to put together any night of the week.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

Green enchiladas work well for family dinner because you can adjust the heat to please those pickier taste buds, you can prepare them (in large part) ahead of time, and with some warmed black beans and a jicama salad, dinner is served! From the LA Times, this recipe is anchored by a homemade salsa verde, loaded with tomatillos. It calls for 8-10 serranos, which would pack an insane amount of heat so I'd suggest starting with a few less and passing the rest on the side for those brave eaters at your table. And remember, always make your enchiladas with corn tortillas. Trying this with the flour-based version will bake up into a mushy mess that wont be nearly as beautiful as it should be.

(Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post)

If you're trying to cut down on the red meat (a good new year's resolution for all of us), this Turkey Scaloppine with Steakhouse Mushrooms and Onions will absolutely satisfy your cravings. Turkey cutlets, pieces of the breast, are pounded out very thin and quickly browned in a saute pan. The mushrooms and onions roast in the oven for lots of caramelization and it's another quick weeknight dinner, thanks to The Washington Post. I'd serve mine with some broccoli or Swiss chard and a big salad. Who needs a steak, let alone a steak house, when you can cook like this at home?

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2011-01-05T08:17:00.000-08:00

Welcome to 2011. If you're new to my site, I'm glad you're here. My Wednesday posts are my take on the best of the best in the week's food media. Traditionally, food stories are printed each Wednesday in major newspapers. While this has changed in some cities, I still think it is the perfect day to be inspired by new recipes. I cull through what's out there and pick the three recipes I think my readers would most enjoy-delicious and fresh, usually simple but I'll occasionally throw in a challenge. Saving you the time it takes to wade through everything, here's your curated version of this Wednesday in food. Enjoy.

(Andrew Srivani/The New York Times)

Melissa Clark, of The New York Times, never dissapoints. Her "A Good Appetite" column always has recipes for the busy cook that are exactly what I love to eat. This week it's a Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Walnuts, Watercress, and Gruyere. Roasting cauliflower is the perfect way to bring out it's sweetness and I think it converts people who swear they don't eat the stuff to fans after just one bite. In the time it takes the cauliflower to roast (about 30 minutes) you can prep the rest of the salad, pour a glass of wine, and toast some crusty bread. It's the ideal dinner on a Meatless Monday or serve it with a braised winter stew for a more hearty meal.

(Colin Campbell/The Guardian)

I read many food magazines from the UK and Australia. One thing that always strikes me is the inherent assumption that readers have at least a clue about cooking. Directions are always less intensive, terms like "deglaze" and "cream together" are used without three additional sentences explaining exactly what to do. When I read this recipe for Pumpkin Chocolate Mud Cake in The London Observer what struck me was not only how easy it is but that in the US this recipe would probably have had five more steps of explicit directions. This is what scares people away from baking. But, read through it and you'll realize a moist, chocolatey, rum frosted cake is just a couple bowls and one hour away-and all that in one paragraph of a recipe.

(The Atlanta Journal Constitution)

For an uber-quick weeknight meal, here is Honey Mustard Glazed Grilled Salmon, from The Atlanta Journal Constitution. Love recipes that take less than a half-hour to make, especially when you can throw the rest of your meal together at the same time. With four ingredients you're sure to have on hand, a beautiful piece of fish can be glazed and grilled (even broiling or roasting would work) in about 15 minutes. I'd serve mine with a salad of avocado and grapefruit and some quinoa or brown rice. Any fish works here too-sure, everyone loves salmon, but ask your fish monger for his or her recommendations based on the best local fish in your area. If you have an iphone, the Monterey Bay Aquarium's "Seafood Watch" app is the perfect way to educate yourself about smart fish choices.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking!

What I'm Reading Today

2010-12-30T12:44:00.000-08:00

I can't believe it's my last installment of 2010. I've been thinking about new year's resolutions and hope you have too. If you cook at home, can I make a suggestion? Let 2011 be the year you start to cook more without a recipe. I know, I write recipes for a living and maybe I'm crazy to say that but I've noticed more and more of my students telling me they want to be more instinctual cooks. My best advice? Pick a few basic recipes-a soup, a vinaigrette/salad, a stew or braise, a pasta sauce, and a seared meat dish. Cook the recipe to the letter then, the next time you make it, try it with a variation or two. Cook it another time or two and pretty soon you'll not only have the recipe etched in memory but you'll have made it your own. Variations from there are endless and you'll be surprised how simple it is to improvise. It takes practice, learning which flavors you like and what works well together, but it isn't hard. Commit to it, do it, and the results will follow. Have fun in the kitchen!

In the meantime, here are a few great recipes to get you started and to close out an amazing year in food.

(The Los Angeles Times)

Before my grandmother passed away she used to fly south for the winter, spending the colder months in Orange County. A great cook herself, she loved the LA Times food section and always clipped recipes to send up to my mom and I. Her favorite section was the paper's compilation of the year's best recipes. I thought of her as I read the 2010 version today. She loved to bake so I'm sure she'd have gone right to the kitchen to fire up a batch of pecan and coconut Paradise Bars. I'm loving the Chicken, Chorizo, and Green Chile Hash and, a recipe that's been on my list all year, the Momofuku Crack Pie.

(Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

Bacon and Cheddar Quiche, a la Melissa Clark in the NY Times, is decadent, rich, and soul satisfying. Homemade crust makes all the difference and Melissa recommends using both butter and lard. The combination of both fats is hard to beat if you're looking for a rich and flaky crust but your favorite all butter pie dough will work just fine here too. Whether it's New Year's Day brunch or a simple, elegant supper paired with mixed greens, there really isn't a bad time of the day to enjoy quiche.

(James M. Thresher/The Washington Post)

When you start looking ahead at January, healthy eating certainly comes to mind. I'm starting with this casserole-Butternut Squash, Kale and Shitake Casserole peppered with the flavors of Thailand. Ginger, coconut milk, and green curry paste take simple seasonal ingredients and turn them into a dish with huge flavors. Better yet, the casserole can be made two days in advance and kept in the fridge so it's perfect for weeknight dinner because you can make ahead of time. There is a bit of cutting and chopping but pulling this one together couldn't be easier.

Here's to a food filled and delicious 2011! Happy Reading and happy cooking.

What I'm Reading Today

2010-12-22T10:59:00.000-08:00

Two days and counting until Christmas eve. I hope you're shopping is done, your meals are planned, and you're well and healthy. Me? Well, shopping is done, meals are almost planned, and my holiday
cold should turn the corner any day now. Happy Holidays and may the rest of the 2010 bring you everything you could wish for and more.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

Ahhh, gougères. If you're ever looking for the go-to appetizer for your next dinner or cocktail party, these should, hands-down, be your number one pick. Russ Parsons writes about them in today's LA Times and I couldn't agree more with his notion about how simple they are. These French cheese puffs are made using a traditional choux pastry, very heavy on the eggs and mixed over the stove top until the dough resembles thick and smooth mashed potatoes (some people transfer the dough to a mixer to finish it-I do it by hand and it always works just fine). The best thing about these light and airy cheese puffs is that you can make them in advance, freeze them (uncooked) on baking sheets, them store them in zip-top bags in your freezer for weeks. I pop them right onto a parchment lined baking sheet and into the oven with no defrosting at all. They still rise beautifully and save lots of last minute work. You can serve your gougères as is (perfect with a crisp, dry Champagne) or cut them open and pop in fillings like smoked salmon mousse, crumbly bacon and arugula, or smoked duck with cherry jam. They really are the perfect appetizer.

(Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times)

I have been making candy non-stop this holiday season. I adore the candy thermometer I got for Christmas last year and it's helped me ensure perfection in all those batches of toffee, brittle, and bark. Today, however, the esteemed food scientist Harold McGee writes, in The New York Times, about using your microwave to make all types of candy. He says the heat in a microwave boils sugar syrup more quickly and evenly, avoiding the inevitable hot spots on the stove top that can cause scorching. He judges doneness by color, instead of using a thermometer, and if the photo of this nut brittle is any indication, it comes out quite nice. I'll admit, I don't own a microwave so this isn't a method I'll be testing any time soon but if you've shied away from making candy because the thermometer thing seems too overwhelming (it isn't, really), this could be a great place to start.

(Haley Lesavoy/The Washington Post)

Sticky buns and cinnamon rolls rank in my top five all time favorite foods. Just like my mom, I've tried dozens of different recipes on the quest for perfection. In today's Washington Post there is a Pecan Toffee Sticky Bun recipe that just jumped to the top of my list. A brioche dough is coated in caramel like toffee sauce and loaded with cinnamon and pecans. These take some time, I'm not going to lie-homemade buns like this are a labor of love. I often do them for Christmas morning, making them the day before, refrigerating them (unbaked) overnight, and, after they come to room temp in the morning, I pop 'em in the oven. Perfect after a marathon round of cleaning up gift wrap, taking photos, and drinking coffee.

Happy Reading and Happy Cooking. Enjoy the flavors of the holidays!

What I'm Reading Today

2010-12-15T11:54:00.000-08:00

Cookies, Brittle, Peppermint Bark, and Toffee...I've been fitting in batches of baking anywhere and everywhere I can. My candy thermometer and sil-pats are working over time cranking out homemade gifts for friends, teachers, and neighbors. I love this time of year!!

(Aasulv Wolf Austad/The New York Times)

The New York Times gathered handfuls of readers' cookie recipes and, after giving them a thorough test run, published many today. The paper's fave is this alternative to your basic sugar cookies, Rich Chocolate Cookies, made for rolling, cutting and decorating. Some other lovely looking recipes are beautifully assembled here. I'll definitely be adding Maple Vanilla Pizelles to my holiday assortment, shaking up the usual anise variety and hoping they're a welcome addition.

(Kirk McKoy/The Los Angeles Times)

The LA Times assembled their own list of sorts, 22 Food Gifts to Give...and Keep for Yourself. I love the adorable Snowflake Pretzel Rods as well as Almond Cherry Coconut Granola. Both recipes are simple for anyone who normally shuns the idea of baking anything. A trip to your local craft store will give you dozens of cute packaging ideas and, voila, before you know it you'll have knocked out all those extra gifts that were still on your list-UPS guy? Check! Dry Cleaners? Check! Dog Walker? Check!

(James M. Thresher/The Washington Post)

Since I've been in nut brittle mode, making what I'm nicknaming "brittlicious" by the bucket full, I loved seeing this No Peanut Brittle in today's Washington Post. Chock full of pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, and pine nuts, it's a great alternative to the peanut version. I actually like the idea of small seeds and nuts, making room for more of the caramelized candy. I always give mine a sprinkle of sea salt before it starts to cool but the tiny touch of chipotle powder in this recipe might be enough to amp things up on its own. For your spiciest friends, this brittle is it.

Happy Reading and Happy Baking!